After so many days traversing arid landscapes, dusty villages, and the High Atlas Mountains, I felt I needed a break. So, I decided to leave Essaouira (also spelled Essaouira or Mogador) for the end of my tour of Morocco. I knew I'd have to return to Marrakech to catch my flight before leaving the country, but I wanted a different kind of ending. Something calmer, fresher, and more coastal.
Essaouira was my resting place. A spot with a bohemian feel and a sea breeze, ideal for unwinding after the desolation of the desert and days of trekking. I strolled leisurely along its walls, watched the sun set over the port, and let myself be carried away by the calm of a city that, while not the center of grand tours, has a charm all its own. A relaxing farewell.
This post is part of the itinerary I put together for a 3- or 4-week tour of Morocco. If you'd like to see the full details, you can read the main article here.
Table of Contents
Colonial Traces: Portuguese Walls and European Architecture
Essaouira was a city coveted by several European powers due to its strategic location on the Atlantic coast. Although the city's current layout was planned in the 18th century by order of Sultan Mohammed ibn Abdallah, it was heavily influenced by European architects , especially French ones, and by the ancient Portuguese structures found in the area.
One of the most obvious traces of this colonial influence are its fortified walls , originally built by the Portuguese in the 16th century. These defenses, which border the sea, are reminiscent of European coastal fortresses, with bastions, watchtowers, and cannons pointed outward. The most emblematic bastion is the Skala de la Kasbah , an elevated promenade with panoramic views of the Atlantic, decorated with ancient bronze cannons that are still preserved.
The rectilinear layout of its streets, quite unusual for a Moroccan medina, also reflects colonial influences and was designed by a French engineer who worked in the city. Walking through Essaouira is, in a sense, like traversing a unique blend of Morocco and Europe, with white facades, blue details, and Portuguese reminiscences at every corner.
Essaouira and its bohemian history: artists, musicians, and free spirits
Since the mid-20th century, Essaouira has been building a reputation as a haven for artists, musicians, and travelers seeking inspiration. For decades, this small Moroccan coastal town has attracted a generation of free spirits seeking a slower, more authentic pace of life.
During the 1960s and 1970s, Essaouira became a key stop on the hippie trail . Musicians such as Jimi Hendrix and Cat Stevens passed through, fascinated by the place's mystical energy.
Essaouira is also the birthplace of Gnawa , a musical style with African roots that blends traditional instruments, spiritual chants, and hypnotic rhythms. The Gnawa Music Festival is held here every year , an event that brings together musicians from around the world and reaffirms Essaouira's position as an epicenter of alternative and mixed culture.
Throughout time, painters, writers, filmmakers, and artisans have also found a source of creativity in Essaouira. Today, its medina is filled with small galleries, art studios, and designer shops, preserving the artistic legacy that distinguishes it from the rest of Morocco.
🚌How to get to Essaouira?
Essaouira is well connected to some of Morocco's major cities, especially Marrakech. These are the most common ways to get there:
➤ From Marrakech (approx. 3 hours – 190 km)
It is the most popular option:
- Bus (CTM or Supratours): They leave several times a day from the Supratours bus station (next to the train station). They are comfortable, economical, and reliable.
- Private transportation or shared taxi: It can be faster, ideal if you are short on time or in a group.
- Full-day excursion: Many tours offer day trips from Marrakech, but I don't recommend this option if you want to fully experience the city. Essaouira deserves at least one night.
If you're going to Marrakech, be sure to read the post I wrote about my visit to the red city.
➤ From Agadir (approx. 3.5 to 4 hours – 175 km)
- There are no direct buses from CTM or Supratours every day, but there are options with other, more local companies or connections via Tiznit.
➤ From Casablanca (approx. 5.5 to 6 hours – 370 km)
- The most practical option is to combine a train to Marrakech and from there a bus to Essaouira.
- You can also hire private transportation if you're looking for comfort or traveling in a group.
You might be interested in reading the post where I talk about what there is to do in Rabat, the capital of Morocco, and Casablanca
🛏️Where to stay in Essaouira
Essaouira offers a wide variety of accommodations, from traditional riads in the medina to beachfront hotels. Your choice will depend on your preferences and the type of experience you're looking for.
🏘️Medina: cultural immersion and proximity to everything
Staying in the medina allows you to be in the heart of the city, surrounded by history, souks, and traditional architecture. It's ideal for those looking to explore on foot and enjoy an authentic experience.
- Riad Chbanate: An elegant riad with careful decoration and excellent service.
- Atlantic Hostel: Un hostel con excelente ubicación y buenas calificaciones
🌊 Zona de la playa: tranquilidad y vistas al mar
Si preferís un ambiente más relajado y estar cerca del mar, la zona de la playa es ideal. Aunque está un poco alejada del bullicio de la medina, sigue siendo accesible a pie o en taxi.
- Yousurf Surf House, donde me hospedé (ya no está mas en booking). Cerca de la playa y lleno de surfers.
- Welkham Home & Coworking: un poco mas alejado del casco histórico, pero con un ambiente de freelancers.
- Villa Quieta: A charming hotel located near the beach, ideal for those seeking tranquility.
- Riad Zawia: Offers rooms with sea views and a privileged location near the beach.
You can read the complete travel guide to Morocco. There you have all the information you need to plan your trip to this fantastic country.
Que ver y hacer en Essaouira
Essaouira is one of Morocco's most charming coastal cities. Its relaxed atmosphere, walled medina, strong Atlantic winds, and rich history make it a great place to visit. Here's a list of the best things to do in Essaouira:
🏰Getting lost in the medina
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its medina is much quieter than that of Marrakech or Fez. It's full of narrow streets, artisan shops, art galleries, cafes, and photogenic spots with blue doors and white walls.
🎣Visit the port and watch the sunset
The fishing port of Essaouira is an experience in itself: blue boats, fishermen selling the day's catch, seagulls circling overhead, and the unmistakable scent of the sea. In the late afternoon, the sun sets just over the Atlantic, and the spectacle of colors is breathtaking.
🏖️Walk on the beach
Essaouira's beach is wide, windy, and perfect for long walks. It's very popular for water sports such as kitesurfing and windsurfing (be careful when swimming! The sea is often cold and rough).
🏯Climb the walls (Skala of the Kasbah and Skala of the Port)
You can walk along the old Portuguese walls, which offer panoramic views of the ocean and the harbor. You'll see cannons pointed out to sea, and from the Port Skala, you have one of the best views of the entire city.
🐟Eat fresh fish at the port stalls
You choose what you want from the freshly caught fish, and they cook it for you right there. It's not the cheapest option (you have to negotiate), but it's very authentic.
🎨Visit local art galleries in the medina
Essaouira also maintains its bohemian heritage through visual art. The medina is filled with small art galleries and workshops run by local artists, many of whom combine traditional techniques with modern expressions. You can find everything from abstract paintings inspired by the sea and the desert to wooden sculptures, tapestries, and handcrafted jewelry.
Notable galleries include Galerie d'Art Frederic Damgaard , one of the best-known, and Galerie la Kasbah , which exhibits contemporary Moroccan artists. It's also common to see artists working in their open studios, willing to chat about their work, their creative process, and life in Essaouira.
If you're an art lover or simply interested in exploring another cultural facet of the country, losing yourself in these creative spaces is an excellent way to experience the most intimate essence of Essaouira.
🕌Discover Jewish history in the Mellah
Essaouira once had a significant Jewish community. You can visit the Simon Attias Synagogue and walk through the old Jewish quarter, where the distinctive architecture can still be seen.
🛍️Buy local crafts
Essaouira is famous for its thuja wood products, textiles, natural soaps, and oils (especially argan oil). It's a great place to shop for souvenirs without the pressure of buying them in Marrakech.
🎶Experience its musical atmosphere, and if you're lucky, the Gnawa Music Festival
One of the most important events in Essaouira is the Gnawa Music Festival , held annually in June since 1998 and transforming the city into a true musical melting pot. For several days, Gnawa artists, descendants of slaves from sub-Saharan Africa, share the stage with musicians of jazz, blues, reggae, flamenco, and other world traditions.
The result is a unique experience where African rhythms blend with contemporary sounds, attracting thousands of people, both Moroccan and foreign. Concerts are held at various venues throughout the city, many of them free and open-air. Even if you don't attend the festival, there are often rehearsals, smaller concerts, and Gnawa performances in the medina throughout the year.
Activities organized in Essaouira
Is it worth visiting Essaouira?
It depends a lot on the type of experience you're looking for. Essaouira is undoubtedly a charming city thanks to its walled medina by the ocean, its relaxed atmosphere, its history linked to artists and musicians, and its beaches that attract surfers from all over the world. For many travelers, it represents a breath of fresh air after the chaos of Marrakech or Fes.
✅ Vale la pena si buscás descansar, caminar tranquilo sin el agobio de las grandes ciudades, disfrutar del arte local, comer buen pescado y conectar con una atmósfera más bohemia y desenfadada.
⚠️ Quizás no tanto si tu idea es sumergirte en la cultura marroquí más profunda, en esa vida local que se respira en pueblos del interior o en medinas menos turísticas. También puede que el clima (especialmente en invierno) te juegue en contra si tu idea era disfrutar de la playa.
In my case, it wasn't the city I liked the most, but that doesn't mean it can't be someone else's favorite. Like everything when traveling, a lot depends on the timing, expectations, and the vibe you arrive with.
☀️Best time to visit Essaouira
Essaouira is enjoyed year-round thanks to its temperate oceanic climate, but there are a few things to consider:
Spring (March to May)
- Pleasant temperatures, clear skies and less wind than in summer.
- Ideal for exploring the city at a leisurely pace and enjoying the beach without crowds.
Summer (June to September)
- It's never hotter than inland Morocco. It's a great getaway if you're in Marrakech and want to cool off.
Autumn (October and November)
- Similar to spring. Mild weather, few tourists, and good conditions for exploring on foot.
Winter (December to February)
- Although temperatures are cooler, there's a greater chance of rain and cloudy days. Still, the city retains its charm.
📅Itinerary for 2 or 3 days in Essaouira
Day 1 – First contact with the city
- Arrival and check-in at your accommodation. Ideally, you should stay within the medina or very close by.
- Medina Walking Tour: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, with white and blue alleyways, thuja wood crafts, art galleries, and bohemian shops.
- Fishing Port and Walls (Skala du Port): A promenade overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the blue boats. Ideal for watching the sunset.
- Dinner with fresh seafood at a restaurant in the port or the medina.
Day 2 – Cultural exploration and relaxation
- Walk through the Skala de la Ville: The walls that protected the city, with cannons pointed out to sea. Great panoramic view.
- Visit a local marquetry or art workshop.
- Traditional lunch: Try a fish tagine or grilled sardines.
- Essaouira Beach: Ideal for walking, having a drink, or trying windsurfing or kitesurfing if you like adventure.
- Live music at night at a local café or bar, with a relaxed atmosphere and good vibes.
Day 3 – Surroundings or rest
- Option 1: Argan Valley Tour: See up close how argan oil is produced and learn about cooperatives run by women.
- Option 2: A day of total relaxation at the beach, enjoying the sea, sipping tea in front of the waves, or reading quietly among the dunes.
- Last walk through the medina to do some shopping or take the last photos.
Reflections on Essaouira: A quiet, but nuanced, farewell
Essaouira was my last city in Morocco, and while I was grateful to end the trip in a quieter place, it wasn't one of my most enjoyable destinations. I traveled in early December, and while the coast is usually one of this city's main attractions, the cool weather didn't allow me to enjoy the beach as much as I would have liked.
I also stayed in a surfer-friendly hostel, very close to the beach. While it was comfortable, I felt the overall vibe was more geared toward foreigners who came to surf, and not so much the authentic, local Morocco that had captivated me in other places like Tinghir or Chefchaouen.
Still, I understand why Essaouira captivates so many travelers. Its bohemian atmosphere, blend of cultures, and Atlantic breeze make it a great place to relax and unwind. Perhaps at another time of year, or with a different approach to travel, I would have experienced it differently.
You may be interested in reading about Tinghir, home to the largest palm oasis in Morocco and the Todra Gorges
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