Located on the edge of the Sahara Desert, Ouarzazate is a city with some interesting things to see, combining history, cinema, and arid landscapes. Known as "the gateway to the desert," it has been the setting for major film productions, but it is also a must-see for those crossing the Atlas Mountains toward southern Morocco.
Although the city itself didn't captivate me much—it feels somewhat scattered and lacks the charm of other Moroccan gems—its greatest asset lies in its strategic location. Ouarzazate is an excellent base for exploring the surrounding area, especially the impressive Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou, one of the most striking and photogenic sites in the country.
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How to get to Ouarzazate
🚐 From Merzouga or Tinghir
If you're coming from the desert, Ouarzazate is a must-see on the return route to the center or north of the country.
- By bus: There are daily buses from the company CTM or Supratours that leave from Merzouga to Ouarzazate. The journey lasts between 7 and 8 hours, passing through Rissani, Erfoud and Tinghir.
- By car or shared taxi: You can also take a shared taxi to Erfoud or Errachidia and connect with another taxi to Tinghir or directly to Ouarzazate. Ideal if you want to get around faster or can't find a bus.
If you're in the area, you might be interested in the post I wrote about Tinghir, with its palm oasis and the Todra Gorge
🚌 From Marrakech
From the imperial city of Marrakech, Ouarzazate is located about 200 km through the High Atlas Mountains.
- By direct bus: There are buses from CTM and other local companies that connect the two cities. The trip takes between 3 and 4 hours depending on traffic and intermediate stops.
- By car or private tour: Many travelers rent a car or book a tour that stops in Ait Ben Haddou and Ouarzazate.
You can read the complete travel guide to Morocco. There you have all the information you need to plan your trip to this fantastic country.
Map of Ouarzazate and Ksar Ait Ben Haddou, including taxi stops and access locations (paid and free)
What to see and do in Ouarzazate
Although the city may not be the most pleasant in Morocco, Ouarzazate has several places to visit in its surroundings that make it a perfect base for exploring this region:
This post is part of the itinerary I put together for a 3- or 4-week tour of Morocco. If you'd like to see the full details, you can read the main article here.
📍 Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou
Without a doubt, the architectural gem of the region. This impressive ksar (traditional fortified village) has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987 and is one of Morocco's most photogenic spots. Built from mud and stone, it sits strategically on a hill on the banks of a nearly dry river, as if frozen in time.
Unlike kasbahs, which are fortresses or fortified residences, usually for a single family or leader, ksars are defensive structures that were used to protect the community from attacks, sandstorms, and other threats. They are also built with local materials such as mud and stone, and feature a distinctive design with dwellings clustered within the defensive walls.
Access to the Ksar is free, although it's important to know that at one of the entrances, there are often people charging a so-called 'entrance fee' (see map). This isn't official, but rather an opportunistic practice to extort money from unsuspecting tourists. In our case, there were three of us, and when we tried to refuse, they became defensive, shouting at us, and even blocking our way until we paid. Unfortunately, we did, only to discover later that there was no one charging anyone through another door. I've marked the door on the map to avoid so you don't run into these people.
What to do inside Ksar Ait Ben Haddou
Once you pass through the walls of the Ksar, it feels like you've stepped onto the set of a period film. The dusty alleys, the adobe houses that blend into the colors of the landscape, and the towers decorated with geometric details transport you back centuries. Although many of the buildings are empty or abandoned, some families still live inside the Ksar, preserving the tradition and essence of this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Within the grounds, you can wander aimlessly up the steep streets to reach the highest point, where the old granary (agadir) is located. From there, the views of the valley and the Ounila River are breathtaking, especially at sunset.
Along the way, you'll also find small artisan workshops, carpet and painting vendors, and some shops selling tea or souvenirs, although they lack the commercial intensity of other Moroccan cities.
What makes Ksar Ait Ben Haddou so special, besides its excellent state of preservation thanks to careful restoration, is its worldwide fame, which it has earned as the setting for numerous films and series. Among others, classics such as:
In some corners, you can still see sets or structures used in filming. Walking through these streets is like stepping into a postcard or a historical film scene.
🚗 How to get to Ksar Ait Ben Haddou from Ouarzazate
Ksar Ait Ben Haddou is located about 30 km northwest of Ouarzazate, and getting there is quite easy:
- By taxi: You can arrange a Grand Taxi in downtown Ouarzazate (see map). The price is negotiable, but can range from 100 to 150 dirhams per ride (cheaper if you share). You can also arrange a round-trip with a wait. Tip: The taxi coordinator may want to make you travel alone to ensure more rides. If you want to share with other people, it's best to go with the group already armed to avoid being rushed.
- By car: If you rented a vehicle, simply take the N9 towards Marrakech and then turn off onto the P1506. The journey takes about 30 to 40 minutes and is well signposted. There is parking near the river, from where you can walk across to the kasbah.
- Organized tour or excursion: Many local agencies offer half-day or full-day trips, combining Ait Ben Haddou with other attractions, such as the Fint Oasis or the film studios.
- By public transport: There are no direct buses to the kasbah, but you can take a shared taxi to the detour and then walk or take other local transport. It's not the most convenient option, but it's possible if you're adventurous and budget-conscious.
🚗 How to return to Ouarzazate from Ksar Ait Ben Haddou
From the same main avenue in town where you were dropped off upon arrival, there are also taxis waiting to take you back to Ouarzazate. If you can share with someone, it's better, as it will save you money.
🎥 Tour the Atlas Film Studios
Ouarzazate is known as the "Hollywood of Africa," and Atlas Studios is one of the largest film studios in the world. They offer guided tours of film sets such as:
It's a fun activity, especially if you're interested in film or want to see up close how the sets for major blockbusters are built.
🏯 Kasbah of Taourirt
Located within the city, this kasbah is one of the most accessible and best-preserved in the region. It was the residence of the Glaoui family, one of the most powerful during the French protectorate. It offers an interesting insight into the traditional architecture of southern Morocco.
Its strategic location made it an important control point on the Sahara trade routes.
As you enter the Kasbah, you'll find a labyrinth of interconnected corridors, multiple interior courtyards, once centers of activity and gathering, and rooms. Although only part of the Kasbah has been restored and is open to the public, this section allows you to appreciate the opulence and design of the era when the Glaoui family resided there.
When I was there, the September 2023 earthquake had recently occurred, so some areas were closed to the public due to the damage. However, the visitable portion remains an enriching experience.
Other places of interest within Ouarzazate
- Cinema Museum: Located opposite the famous Taourirt Kasbah, this museum houses original sets, costumes, and props used in the numerous films shot in the region. Ideal for film buffs who want to delve into the behind-the-scenes of "Moroccan Hollywood."
- Al Mouahidine Square (Central Square): This is the social heart of Ouarzazate. In the evening, it comes alive with local families, food stalls, and street activities. A great place to experience the city's soul.
- Ouarzazate Souk (Local Market): A few blocks from the central square, this market is less touristy than others in Morocco, making it a great place to see how locals live and trade. You can find everything from spices and dates to textiles and handicrafts.
- Ouarzazate Handicraft Center: Here, products made by local artisans, from carpets to traditional lamps, are displayed and sold. It's a great place to buy authentic souvenirs and support Moroccan craftsmanship.
- Old Quarter (Old Medina): Although not as labyrinthine as in other cities, it still has its charm. The narrow streets of the old quarter retain a quiet, local feel, with shops that are less oriented toward tourists.
🏜️ Fint Oasis
I didn't go, but about 15 km south is this oasis, said to be hidden among the mountains. It's an ideal getaway for those seeking tranquility and contact with nature. From what you can see, it's a very photogenic spot, with palm trees, small Berber villages, and a serene atmosphere.
🏜️ Heading into the desert: excursion to Zagora
Ouarzazate is also the gateway to the desert. Although many prefer Merzouga for its large dunes, Zagora is a closer option (about 6 hours by road) and accessible for those short on time. Camel tours to the Sahara Desert depart from here, with nights in Berber tents. It's an ideal plan if you want to experience the desert without going too far.
If you want to know more about visiting the desert, you might be interested in the post I wrote about Merzouga, the entrance to the Sahara Desert
Is it worth visiting Ouarzazate and Ksar Ait Ben Haddou on a tour or on your own?
Ouarzazate, like Tinghir, can be visited on a tour or on your own. Tours departing from Marrakech generally don't stay long in the city, but instead go directly to Ksar Ait Ben Haddou and then directly to Tinghir for an overnight stay, skipping the tour of Ouarzazate.
Getting there isn't complicated, as I mentioned above, so it depends on your travel style whether you want to visit Ouarzazate with an organized group or on your own and include other places in the area.
These are some tours that you can find leaving from Marrakech towards Merzouga and that include a visit to Ksar Ait Ben Haddou:
🛏️ Where to stay in Ouarzazate
The city of Ouarzazate is divided by the river into two main areas, creating a kind of "double center." On one side is the most touristy and central area, near the Kasbah Taourirt and Al-Mouahidine Square, where restaurants, travel agencies, and a few mid-range hotels are concentrated. This area is ideal if you want to have everything close at hand and get around on foot.
On the other side of the river, in more residential neighborhoods, you'll find cheaper accommodations, such as simple hostels or family-run guesthouses. These are a good option if you want to save money, although they come with the disadvantage of having to walk further to get to the city center or take taxis, especially at night or in very hot weather.
I stayed on the other side of the river, in the quieter area, at the Afgo Hostel. It has a good breakfast on the terrace, private and shared rooms, and is ideal for meeting other travelers.
In summary:
- Opposite the center (across the river): cheaper, but less convenient to get around.
- Central area (near Kasbah Taourirt): more comfortable, although a little more expensive.
🌞 When is the best time to visit Ouarzazate?
As in Tinghir, spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best times to visit Ouarzazate. The climate is moderate, with pleasant temperatures for exploring the valley or the Kasbah Ben Ait Haddou.
Summer (June to August) can be very hot, with temperatures above 40°C, which can make outdoor activities uncomfortable, although it is a good time if you prefer to avoid crowds.
In winter (December to February), temperatures are cool during the day and cold at night.
How many days should I stay in Ouarzazate?
Two days are enough to visit Ksar Ait Ben Haddou and the city. If you want to include other nearby sites, you'll of course need more days.
✨ Final reflection of my visit to Ouarzazate
To be honest, Ouarzazate as a city didn't quite captivate me. I didn't find the authentic charm I did in Tinghir, where local life and the natural environment blend in a much more genuine way.
However, staying a couple of days in the area was completely worth it for the opportunity to visit the impressive Ksar Ait Ben Haddou. This adobe gem, steeped in history and the setting for so many films, is one of those stops that justifies the detour on its own. Sometimes, more than the destination itself, what truly matters is what a place allows you to discover in the surrounding area.