For years I dreamed of walking the Camino de Santiago. The idea of walking one of the most famous pilgrimage routes haunted my mind like a call that was hard to ignore. But I had a self-imposed condition: if I did it, it wouldn't be just a section or from Sarria (the minimum required to obtain the Compostela certificate), but it would have to be from beginning to end.
Today I can happily say that day has arrived. It was five intense weeks during which I walked 780 kilometers through ever-changing landscapes, sharing laughs with strangers who soon became fellow travelers, and also long silences that needed no explanation. There were blisters, fatigue, moments of introspection... but what marked me most wasn't so much a change in my way of traveling or living—that would be saying something—but something more subtle: the rediscovery of human connection.
On the Camino, I learned to trust people I'd just met, to open up without masks or urgency, to share simple things: a meal, a story, a knowing glance at the end of a difficult journey. With each unexpected encounter and each generous gesture, I realized how much an honest conversation in the middle of nowhere can transform. The Camino taught me that sometimes the most valuable thing isn't in the destination, but in the bonds you build along the way.
Join me in this mix of guide and epic story about how to do the Camino de Santiago on your own, full of practical advice, useful information for pilgrims, stages, main characteristics, and personal reflections after traveling the 780 km of the French Route.



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Table of Contents
Complete guide to doing the Camino de Santiago on your own: French Route
The Camino de Santiago is one of the most famous pilgrimage routes in the world, and the Camino Francés is its most popular and emblematic variant. With a length of approximately 780 km, it crosses northern Spain from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela.
What is the Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago is an ancient network of pilgrimage routes that lead to the city of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, where the remains of the apostle Saint James the Greater are believed to lie. Born in the Middle Ages as a spiritual path for Christians throughout Europe, today it is much more than that: it is a cultural, physical, and emotional experience that attracts travelers from all over the world, believers and non-believers alike.
Over time, the Camino has evolved from a purely religious route to a global phenomenon, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered one of Europe's great long-distance routes. Walking it is, for many, a way to reconnect with oneself, with others, and with a simpler, deeper rhythm of travel.

You know that...
The quintessential symbol of the Camino de Santiago is the scallop shell, native to the Galician coast.
It is believed to have been used since the Middle Ages, when pilgrims arriving in Santiago would carry a shell as proof of their completion of the Camino. They also wore it around their necks or sewn onto their backpacks or hats, giving them certain protection and special rights as they traveled through towns and cities.
Another interpretation is its shape. With its lines radiating from a common point, it represents the many paths that originate in different corners of Europe and converge in a single place: Santiago de Compostela. It's a metaphor for the spiritual journey that each person follows in their own way, but which ultimately unite toward a common destiny.
Why do the Camino de Santiago?
Sooner or later, this is a question we all ask ourselves at some point along the Camino: why am I doing this? For some, the answer is charged with emotion: recent grief, a promise to keep, the end of a relationship, a search for meaning, religious reasons, or the need to heal old wounds. For others, the motive may be more practical: a physical challenge, a desire to disconnect from the fast-paced life, or simply the curiosity to embark on a different adventure.
In my case, the motivation wasn't as dramatic or momentous, but it was no less significant. I wanted to experience the Camino firsthand, to stop listening to stories and become part of them. I wanted to experience the routine of walking day after day, without pause, allowing my body to adapt and my mind to open. And above all, I wanted to share this path steeped in history with people from all over the world, in an environment where the simple takes on meaning and the everyday becomes special.
The main routes of the Camino de Santiago

Although the "Camino" is often referred to as a single route, there are actually multiple routes, each with its own charm, difficulty, and historical context:
- French Route: The most popular and traveled route. It begins in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (France) and crosses all of northern Spain. It's what many consider the "classic Camino."
- Portuguese Way: It starts in Lisbon or Porto and heads north along the Atlantic coast. It's quieter, so it's ideal if you're looking for fewer crowds.
- Camino del Norte: It runs along the Cantabrian coast from Irún to Galicia. It's more physically demanding, but offers spectacular views and is less crowded.
- Vía de la Plata: It arrives from the south, starting in Seville. Long and hot, but steeped in history (it follows ancient Roman roads).
- Primitive Way: Said to be the first. It connects Oviedo with Santiago. Shorter, mountainous, and with an authentic and solitary feel.
There are many more variants and branches, some modern, others with ancient roots, but the important thing is not so much where you start, but rather the spirit with which you walk.

Questions and tips before doing the Camino de Santiago on your own
While walking the Camino de Santiago was a dream come true, I can't deny I had my doubts. I had spent the last month traveling through different regions of Spain—Madrid, Andalusia, Barcelona, and Bilbao, among others—walking a lot every day. I was already feeling a bit tired, and that was making me feel a bit uncertain.
In addition, he was traveling with a large 65-liter backpack and a medium-sized one, weighing about 10 kg in total. I wasn't entirely sure where to start, how challenging the course would be, or if I had the right equipment to get started. All of this generated a mixture of excitement and nerves in me, a fairly common feeling, I imagine, among those embarking on this adventure for the first time.
First sign in Bilbao
But it was in Bilbao where I had my first encounter with pilgrims who were doing the variant of the Camino del Norte. By chance, my accommodation, the Bilbao Metropolitan Hostel by Bossh Hotels, was one of those chosen by walkers to rest. There I met several people, mostly French, who arrived exhausted but happy and eager to chat.

I started asking them all kinds of questions, asking for advice, recommendations, anything they thought might be helpful. Over a beer, they answered all my questions and urged me to keep at it... after all, I could have quit at any moment.
The Northern Way, I've been told, is more demanding, not just physically, but also in terms of the services offered along the way, and specifically the scarcity of these services.
The next day they continued on their way and I decided to rule out the northern variant, I definitely wasn't ready for it...yet.
I told myself, I'm going to take a few days off in Pamplona, an important city on the French Route, and see if I can meet pilgrims on that route.
Trip to Pamplona, a key city on the French Route

I arrived in Pamplona with one goal in mind: to learn more about the French Route. I stayed at the Plaza Catedral Hostel, very pretty indeed, and part of the network of hostels that issue the pilgrim's booklet. There I met many people coming down from the Pyrenees and heading toward Puente La Reina. Once again, the round of consultations began.
As a conclusion of those conversations, I concluded that this variant, unlike the northern one, is easier to plan. The French Route has better signage, a greater number of towns along the route and other advantages.So, at least a priori, it seemed like a much more accessible option for someone like me, who had no idea where to start.

What is the French Way?

He French Way It is the most traditional and popular route of the Camino de Santiago, declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Along its route, it passes through major cities steeped in history, such as Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León, and Santiago; historic towns; and a variety of landscapes ranging from the Pyrenees to the green mountains of Galicia.
Advantages of doing the French Route of the Camino de Santiago
How would it be? my first time doing the Camino de SantiagoI preferred to play it safe. The French Route has several advantages over the other variants, and is ideal for a beginner like me.
1. Excellent infrastructure for pilgrims

The French Route has the most comprehensive network of hostels, inns, bars, and services designed for hikers. Each stage usually ends in a town with at least one sleeping option, which allows for great flexibility when planning your route (or improvising it!).
2. Lots of signage
It's perfectly marked with yellow arrows, shells, and information signs. It's almost impossible to get lost, even without a GPS, making it an ideal option for first-time hikers like me.

3. Great variety of towns and landscapes
You'll cross regions with very distinct identities: Navarre, La Rioja, Castile and León, and Galicia. You'll go from mountains to endless plateaus and humid forests, with medieval villages, historic cities, and open countryside. The cultural and landscape diversity is a great attraction.

4. Insured company
This can be considered positive or negative, depending on the type of pilgrimage you want to undertake. Since it's the busiest route, there are always other pilgrims along the way. This makes it easier to socialize, share stages, or simply feel like you're not alone. If you're traveling alone, it's a great way to meet people from all over the world.
But if, on the other hand, you're looking to spend time alone or avoid people, this option would be the worst choice of all. Especially in summer, when, as I've heard, the Camino de Santiago is packed.

5. More options for eating and stocking up
Most towns have bars, shops, or supermarkets, allowing you to walk more lightly and eat well without having to carry too much food. Many pilgrim menus offer local dishes at good prices.
You don't need to bring a lot of supplies or cooking equipment; you'll always find a store where you can get food or drinks.
In my case, I stocked up at the large supermarkets (which aren't in every town), since you can get better prices there than at the small town shops.
6. Rich in history and art
It's not unique to this route, but as it's the most traveled route since ancient times, there's a wealth of cultural heritage along the way. You'll pass Romanesque churches, monasteries, ancient bridges, and spectacular cathedrals like those in Burgos and León.

7. Ideal for short or partial stretches
This wouldn't be my case, but thanks to the good connections by train, bus, and taxi, you can choose to do only part of the Camino if you don't have the time to travel the 780 km.
Many do lThe last 100 km from Sarria, because it is the minimum necessary to obtain the Compostela, an official document certifying that they have completed the Camino de Santiago.
Others, especially Spaniards, take a week's vacation and complete sections. I met people who had been walking the Camino de Santiago in sections for years. It's easy for them; they live nearby, but for those of us who live on another continent, like America, it's not such a common practice.
What do I need to do the Camino de Santiago, French Route?
Based on what other pilgrims had recommended to me, and what I was later able to verify on my own, the following list of things I need to do or have before starting the Camino de Santiago emerges:
Obtain the Pilgrim's Credential

The Pilgrim's Credential is essential for several reasons:
- It is a requirement to stay in public hostels of the Camino, which are exclusively intended for accredited pilgrims.
- It is stamped every day at different points along the route., and it serves as proof that you've actually completed the Camino. These can be accommodations, churches, or shops, but be careful not to get carried away with stamping everywhere, because in the end, you won't get enough of one credential and will have to buy another.
- It is necessary to obtain the Compostela, the official certificate that is given in Santiago de Compostela at the end of the route.
- It is a valuable memory of experience, full of stamps and memories that you will keep for a lifetime.
- It also gives access to discounts in some accommodations, restaurants or attractions along the way.

Where can I purchase my pilgrim credential?
If you're in a town or city along the Camino de Santiago, you can get a pilgrim's credential in many places. You can always find them at hostels, churches, santerias, or other related shops. Just ask, and they'll be able to tell you which one is closest to you.
Sleeping bag
Is It is essential to have a sleeping bag or sack To complete the Camino. If we're going to sleep in municipal hostels, for example (I'll explain the types of hostels we can choose from below), it's essential to have a sleeping bag, since they don't have sheets or blankets, and it can get quite cold at night.
Trekking poles (debatable for me)
Some consider it essential to use trekking poles along the Camino de Santiago. We all know their benefits, and I often use them when hiking in the mountains. My advice is to If you have any doubts or want to take care of your knees, use them..
But in my case, when walking on asphalt or flat trails, they were more of a hindrance than a relief. Aside from some useful stretches, I ended up using them more as imaginary swords than walking sticks.

Trekking backpack
I started the Camino with a normal backpack, which I used more for carrying a laptop than for hiking. After carrying it so full, after a few weeks the closure gave up and broke. I had to use a lent elastic band to keep it closed, until I was able to buy a new one at the Decathlon in León.

A good backpack will prevent back and shoulder pain. Ideally, it should have handles on the torso and waist, which distribute the weight better and make the trip much more comfortable.
I bought myself This Quechua backpack at Decathlon in León And it was a very good decision. I've used it for many treks, and it's still holding up.

Rain poncho
I've never used a poncho so much in my life. After hiking for so many weeks, rainy days are inevitable, especially when we enter Galicia, where it always rains no matter the season. Carrying an umbrella doesn't seem very practical to me, because it's usually very windy too. So carrying a good, quality poncho, and one that can cover our backpack if possible, is vital to staying dry.
I didn't have a poncho from the start either. I'd been making do with a supposedly waterproof windbreaker, but I ended up getting wetter than if I didn't have anything at all.
I had to buy My “beautiful” Poncho also at the Decathlon in León, and we were inseparable ever since.

Warm clothing
Depending on the season you're hiking, whether you need more or less warm clothing will depend on the weather. I hiked the Camino during the month of October, autumn, and in Galicia, during the last few weeks, it was cold and rainy. In any case, you shouldn't carry too much weight. Every kilo in your backpack weighs a lot at the end of the day.
Good shoes and good socks
The biggest enemy they'll face, besides fatigue, is the blisters they can develop. I've met people who had to drop out or take days off to recover due to the number and size of the blisters they received. It's essential to have good, comfortable shoes that, if possible, have been worn before to minimize the chances of injury.
They don't have to be the most expensive trekking shoes in the world, high-altitude shoes, or Gore-Tex (although it helps keep your feet dry). They just have to be comfortable and have good grip for walking on gravel.
I walked a lot alongside Dan, a Belgian who broke his old shoes at the beginning of the Camino, and started wearing sandals. Yes, he completed the 99% of the Camino de Santiago wearing sandals and socks. He was proud of the feat he had accomplished, and no wonder, even though it took months for his feet to recover.
A shoe to rest your feet
Once we've finished walking for the day, it's a good idea to rest our feet in lightweight footwear, such as flip-flops or sandals. It's important to let our feet cool down to minimize the appearance of blisters.
Basic medical kit
Anti-inflammatories, sunscreen, bandages, alcohol… the basics we might need if we hurt ourselves far from a town. However, pharmacies are easily found in populated areas.
Cash
Many shelters, especially municipal ones, don't accept cards. They only accept cash. And it can sometimes be difficult or tiring to find an ATM in small towns.
They can take advantage of the opportunity in large cities to withdraw money and save it in case they need it later.
An app on your mobile
It's not mandatory, but I highly recommend it. There are several offline apps that can help us plan each stage of the Camino de Santiago.
The 2 most popular ones I saw on the pilgrims are:
Buen Camino de Santiago (the one I used)
- One of the most used apps by Spanish speakers.
- Offline maps, stage profiles, accommodations, points of interest.
- Up-to-date information and opinions from other pilgrims.
- It has several routes (French Way, Portuguese Way, Primitive Way, etc.).
- Available for Android and iPhone

Gronze
- Although it is better known as a website, it also has an app.
- Excellent for checking stages, route profiles, hostels, and prices.
- It has real opinions from pilgrims and planning suggestions.
- Highly valued for its clarity and level of detail.
- Available for Android and iPhone
What NOT to bring on the French variant of the Camino de Santiago?
Just as there is a list of essential items to take on the Camino de Santiago, there are also things that are best left at home. For example:
- A tent: completely unnecessary for the French Route. The distances between each town or city are not very long, and in each one we'll find multiple accommodation options, both budget and not so budget. Unless you deliberately plan to camp, carrying a tent is a strain on your back. The primitive variant could be different, as the towns are usually separated by long distances.
- Cooking equipmentSame reason as the tent. Most hostels have equipped kitchens so we can cook our own meals. You can also find shops or supermarkets along the way where you can buy ready-made food or snacks.
- OvereatingDon't be like me, who used to buy salads or tortillas at city supermarkets and then carry them around in my backpack for hours or days to save a few euros. It takes up space and adds weight to your back.
- Lots of clothesThere's no need to bring so many clothes. In most hostels, we can wash clothes by hand or machine. It's better than carrying extra weight on our backs.
- Heavy books or printed guides: Try using your phone to view guides or a Kindle to read books. Even though a paperback version is different, there's no point in carrying it around those weeks.
The “Camino” provided equipment
Of the essentials I mentioned earlier, I was missing half of them. I didn't have a sleeping bag, walking sticks, a poncho, or a trekking backpack.
I bought the poncho and backpack weeks after starting, in León, but the sleeping bag and walking sticks were given to me at my hostel, Plaza Catedral Hostel From Pamplona. It turns out that many pilgrims leave behind equipment they no longer need, or even forget. Hostels usually keep it and give it to those who need it. That was the final push I needed to make up my mind.
I just had one last detail to resolve…What to do with the large backpack?
Postal service, a marvel
The Spanish Postal Service is excellently prepared to handle these types of issues.
They have different “packages” that can be very useful depending on our case.
Pilgrim Pack
Suitcases and packages can be sent to Santiago de Compostela, at the beginning or end of the Camino, up to 25kg each. To explain this better, let's use my example.
I'm in Pamplona, planning before starting my Camino, and I decide I don't want to carry my large backpack the entire way. So, from any Correo Postal branch, I can send my luggage to Santiago or any other branch along the route, and it will be waiting for me when I arrive. Easy and safe.
Prices start at €20.95, but will depend on the weight and the length of time you want to store your luggage at the post office. I remember paying around €40 for a 15kg backpack and 30-day storage.
Pack Backpack
This package is for the transfer of the backpack that we are carrying during the Camino. It's up to 15kg and can't be shipped more than 60km from our current location. Another example to make it clearer.
I arrive at one of the villages along the French Route where I'll spend the night. I'm tired, and the next day I'd like to walk without the burden of my backpack.
With this service, I can coordinate with my hostel to leave my backpack in a corner, write down on a form which hostel I want it delivered to tomorrow, and the courier will take care of everything. When I arrive at my destination, my backpack will be waiting for me.
It's ideal if you have a very full backpack and know that a tough stage is coming up the next day.
The price can range from €9 euros.
Bicycle Pack
Similar to the Pilgrim Package, but with the bicycle.
You can verify this information in the official website of the Postal ServiceFrom there, they can also simulate how much they would have to pay.

Types of Accommodation on the Camino de Santiago
Public or municipal shelters
My favorite accommodation. Municipal hostels are managed by the city council, parishes or associations of friends of the Camino. (volunteers who have already completed their Camino and collaborate for weeks on maintenance tasks).
- They are usually the more economical, from € 5 to € 15 euros approx., some are even at donation (I saw few, but they still exist).
- They are just available for pilgrims with credentials.
- They work by first come, first served and reservations are not possible in advance. This can be a problem during peak season (summer). They're the first to be booked, and there aren't enough to cover all the demand.
- They offer basic services: beds or bunk beds, shared bathrooms, and sometimes a kitchen. For these cases the sleeping bag is essential!!! Otherwise we risk getting cold at night.
Private hostels
Unlike municipal ones, these are managed by individuals, for example where I stayed in Pamplona, the Plaza Catedral Hostel.
- They have more amenities than public ones (fewer beds per room, more well-maintained bathrooms, sometimes breakfast included).
- They can be book in advance, which is useful in high season.
- The price is usually around €10 and €20 per night.
- They also require the credential (although some do not ask for it).
Guesthouses and hostels
Similar to classic hostels.
- Ideal option for those seeking more privacy.
- Single or double rooms, with private bathroom.
- It is not always necessary to present the credential.
- The price can vary greatly depending on the city and season (from €25 onwards).
Hotels
Ideal for a treat between all the walking, although there is no pilgrimage atmosphere.
- Less common among pilgrims, but available in larger cities.
- A good option to rest well after several stages.
- Comfort and full services, but at a higher price.
Rural houses
Accommodation in the rural surroundings of the Camino.
- Quiet, charming, and often with home-cooked meals.
- Ideal for those looking for a more authentic and relaxed experience.
Where to start the Camino de Santiago
All the variants of the Camino de Santiago have a “formal beginning.” For example The Northern Route begins in Irún, in the Basque Country, right on the border with France. The primitive route begins in Oviedo, capital of the Principality of Asturias. The French Route begins in Saint Jean Pied de Port, a town located in the Pyrenees on the French side.

If you don't want to walk the entire route, you can start in any town or city that forms part of the Camino de Santiago route. It depends on how many stages you want to walk.
Just remember that to get the “Compostela“, a certificate that proves that they have completed the Camino de Santiago, they have to prove that they walked at least 100km, for example from Sarria if they are doing the French route.
How to get to Saint Jean Pied de Port, the origin of the French Route
From Spain
The closest city to Saint Jean Pied de Port is Pamplona. From there it is possible to take buses or taxis to the French village.
By Bus
In high season, from March to October, the company Alsa has daily services that leave for Saint Jean Pied de Port.
- The trip takes 1.45 hours
- It costs €22 euros
Another option is with the company, Artieda Coaches, which offers regular service between Pamplona and Roncesvalles. From Roncesvalles to Saint Jean Pied de Port, the only option is to take a taxi.
From France
The closest city to Saint Jean Pied de Port from France is Bayonne.
From there a direct train leaves, through the company SNFC, with a duration of 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Best time to do the Camino de Santiago
An important question to get organized, What is the best time to do the Camino de Santiago? The answer is…it depends.
If we want to walk with the heat of summer, with long days and lots of people Along the Camino, the ideal months would be in June, July and August.
On the other hand, if we want escape the high season, but continue enjoying good weather, the months of April/May and September/October, would be correct.
I I started on October 2nd and finished on November 3rdI had a mix of climates. The first two weeks, from the Pyrenees to Burgos, the weather was great, clear, with no rain and no stifling heat. It was a pleasure walking those stages. But then things changed; rainy days began to arrive, and the temperature dropped, especially the last 10 days.
Every day I was in Galicia was cloudy with partial rain. The same applies to Santiago de Compostela, where I was there for four days, and every day was drizzly and cold.
If I had to do it again, would start in mid-September and end in mid-October.
The rest of the months, November/December/January/February/March, tend to be quite cool with very short days. I wouldn't like to walk during those times, but the advantage is that you'll have the Camino to yourselves.
Is the Camino de Santiago difficult? Do I need to be physically fit?
You don't need to be an athlete to walk the Camino, but it helps to be at least somewhat prepared. The difficulty depends largely on your chosen pace, the route you take, and your own physical condition.
The French RouteFor example, it's one of the busiest and best-equipped trails, with plenty of towns, accommodations, and services that allow you to progress at your own pace. Of course, you'll be walking quite a bit, between 20 and 30 km per day on average, so a little prior training (such as long walks or climbing hills with a backpack) is very helpful.
Beyond the body, the Camino is also a mental challenge. You learn to listen to your body, to live with the bare minimum, to accept fatigue... but also to be surprised by all you can do.
So no, It is not impossible nor only for athletes, but preparing a little will help you enjoy the experience more.
Doing the Camino de Santiago by Bicycle
Doing the Camino de Santiago by bicycle is a different experience than the traditional pilgrim's walk. The bicycle allows travel long distances in less time, cross changing landscapes in a single day, and live an adventure at your own pace.
Unlike the slow and thoughtful pace of the walker, the bicigrino faces different physical challenges, such as long climbs, steep descents, and the need to take care of your equipment every step of the way. But it also offers enormous freedom. With greater mobility, you can deviate from the traditional layout, explore nearby towns, or stop in corners that might otherwise go unnoticed.
It is important to note that, in order to obtain the Compostela (the official certificate of the Camino), cyclists must travel at least 200 km (compared to the 100 km required for walkers), and also have their ID stamped twice a day. Many choose to start from León, Ponferrada, or Astorga to cover this minimum distance.
While most of the Camino Francés is passable by bike, there are some sections where the terrain requires dismounting and pushing, especially in mountainous or muddy areas. Therefore, it is advisable to have at least some prior experience on long routes or rural roads.
Ultimately, cycling the Camino doesn't diminish the depth of the experience. The human connections, the landscapes, the moments of solitude, and the physical challenges are still present, just at a different speed.
Tips for doing the Camino de Santiago on your own, French Route
As a summary of everything we've seen so far, here are my top tips:
- Planning: It's important to decide how many kilometers you want to travel per day and where you plan to sleep. The apps I recommended above are ideal for organizing.
- Accommodation: You can choose municipal or private hostels, or even rural houses. Keep in mind that public hostels cannot be reserved in advance and are less complex in terms of infrastructure.
- Equipment: Bring a light backpack with the essentials (comfortable clothing, appropriate footwear, first aid kit, sleeping bag).
- Pilgrim's Credential: Necessary to stay in municipal hostels and obtain the Compostela upon arrival in Santiago.
- Recommended season: Spring and autumn are ideal for the climate and fewer pilgrims. But keep in mind that autumn also brings rain, especially in Galicia, where it rains most of the year.
What is the best thing about the Camino de Santiago?
He French Way It's a unique experience, both physically and spiritually. Exploring it means immersing yourself in centuries of history, meeting people from all over the world, and enjoying beautiful landscapes.
But if there is something that truly made this experience unique, it was the people I met along the Camino. Not because the landscapes or the towns of the Camino de Santiago were not beautiful, because many are, but that beauty can also be found in other corners of the planet. What really made the difference was the camaraderie among pilgrims, that sense of community that is generated by walking for days and weeks alongside the same people.



Sharing stories, supporting each other through tough times, celebrating each milestone. That human connection is, without a doubt, what makes Camino de Santiago such a special and unique experience
I'd like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who was part of my Camino. Thanks to them, I'm left with very happy memories. Thank you, Edurne, Paco, Isa, Daniela, Savanna, Sonya, Dan, Jennifer, Matt, Alycia, Caroline, Maura, Lincoln, Maria, and the Italians. I miss you, and I hope to see you again in the future at one of the reunions already taking place.

What's the worst thing about the Camino de Santiago?
Not everything is rosy. There are things that aren't good or can cause discomfort.
Physical injuries
Blisters, strains, tendonitis... they're all part of the mix. The body speaks, and if you don't listen, it takes its toll. Some days you walk in pain, and that can take a significant toll on your mood.
The accumulation of fatigue
It's not just physical exhaustion, but also mental exhaustion. Waking up early every day, walking for long hours, arriving at a shelter, showering, doing laundry, searching for food... all of this for 33 days.
Saturation in high season
I went in October and didn't experience it personally (except from Sarria, when it gets very crowded). But they say that during July and August, some stages can feel like a massive pilgrimage. The lack of beds and full hostels can be a bit stressful for an experience that many would imagine to be more peaceful or introspective.
The monotonous stages, entrances and exits of the big cities
Many pilgrims expressed a certain fatigue from the monotonous stages. Not everything is picture-postcard scenery. There are stages that are long, hot, with little shade, and cross roads or industrial areas. This was the point I suffered the most. The entrances and exits to large cities are often noisy, long, and between factories or highways. Sometimes you have to walk several kilometers on asphalt or along the side of a road. The contrast between walking through a field and entering a city is striking.
The farewells
One of the most beautiful things about the Camino is the people you meet. But it's also hard to say goodbye to them when our paths diverge. It sounds cliché, but it happens.

Imagine that, after sharing a whole month of walks, meals, stories, and laughter, an almost familiar routine begins to form. Every day is a shared adventure. And suddenly, all of that ends overnight. The farewell can feel very intense, as if you're leaving behind a small life you'd built along the way.

Finisterre (Fisterra), the end of the ancient world and of the Camino?
Most pilgrims finish the Camino de Santiago in the city of Santiago de Compostela. It is the historical and spiritual destination of the Camino. Arriving at the Plaza del Obradoiro, seeing the cathedral, and embracing your companions is a symbolic and emotional experience for most pilgrims.
It has a distinct energy, with hugs, tears, bagpipes playing, pilgrims reuniting. There's a lot of emotion in the air.
But the Camino actually continues beyond Santiago. It's an additional 90 km, a three- to five-day walk towards the Atlantic, until you reach Finisterre (Fisterra).

Epilogue of the Camino de Santiago
Unlike Santiago, Finisterre is quieter, less touristy, and gives space to be with ourselves, reflect, process what we have experienced and finally say goodbye to the Camino in a more introspective way.
In ancient times it was believed that Finisterre It was literally the end of the world. Reaching the ocean after weeks of walking has another burden, it's like a real act of closing and contemplation.
I discarded the idea of walking it due to lack of time and because the weather hadn't been cooperating in recent weeks. However, with some of the group we formed on the Camino and with whom we arrived together in Santiago de Compostela, we decided to rent a car and take a day trip to Finisterre.

It has spectacular landscapes with coastal towns and cliffs facing the Atlantic, definitely a different environment than we had been observing on the French Route.

Walking along the beaches of Finisterre, with the strong wind hitting my face and the constant sound of the sea, was like writing the epilogue to a book I didn't want to finish. There were no more crowds, bagpipes, or excited hugs like in Santiago. Most of the pilgrims had returned to their lives, and that silence made me feel like my Camino was finally ending. Every step on the sand was one of the last of this journey. There was no destination to reach, no hostel to find. No more breakfasts and dinners shared with the pilgrim family. All that remained was be thankful for what you have experienced.

How to get to Finisterre from Santiago de Compostela
Driving isn't the only way to get to Finisterre; there are other options from Santiago:
Walking (the pilgrim way)
- Distance: 90 km from Santiago to Finisterre.
- Duration: 3 to 5 days, depending on the pace.
- Route: Well-signposted trail, with hostels and towns in between such as Negreira, Olveiroa and Cee.
- AdvantageIt's a natural "epilogue" to the Camino. Many feel that the true conclusion is reaching the sea.
By bus (the practical way)
- Company: Monbus (www.monbus.es)
- Duration: 2 hours and 30 minutes.
- Price: Around 10–13 euros (varies depending on schedule).
- Departures: Several a day from the Santiago bus station (Intermodal Station).
- Advice: Buy your ticket online in advance, especially during peak season.
By car or shared
- Duration: : Approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes.
- RentYou can rent a car in Santiago and explore the Galician coast more freely (even go as far as Muxía).
- CarpoolingPlatforms like BlaBlaCar sometimes have drivers who go to Finisterre.

Final reflections on my Camino de Santiago
After so many days walking, passing through villages, greeting new faces every morning and saying goodbye to others at dusk, I realized that an important part of the Camino lies not in the kilometers traveled, but in the way we connect with others. In that strange and beautiful community of strangers that becomes, for a few days, a family walking together.
On the Camino you learn to speak without fear (I found myself sharing very personal things in just a few days of knowing each other), to listen without distractions, and to share silences that sometimes say more than any words.
But I also learned something valuable: to releaseThe Path is a constant practice of emotional detachmentYou meet incredible people (and some not so incredible ones), you share meals, sore feet, confessions, laughter, and hugs, and then suddenly... they're gone. They take another route, or they simply end their journey. And that's okay, that's how life works. You learn to say goodbye, although it took me a few days to recover from that emptiness. To be grateful for the encounter, without needing it to last forever.
I'll take that lesson with me. The Camino taught me to be more present, to value the now, to connect more deeply and at the same time let go more lightly. Because in the end, as in life, what matters isn't how many people reach your destination with you, but everything that those who accompanied you for a while left behind.
“The important thing is not how you arrive, but how you arrive and with whom you share the journey.” – Unknown author

Frequently Asked Questions about the Camino de Santiago
This is a compilation of the most frequently asked questions we all ask ourselves when we begin to think about the Camino de Santiago.
What is the best way to start?
He French Way It's the most popular and has the best infrastructure. Ideal for beginners due to the number of towns, hostels, and services available.
What is the best time to do it?
Spring (April-June) and autumn (September-October) These are the best months due to the mild climate and fewer crowds. In summer, there are more pilgrims, but it's also hotter and there's less availability in hostels.
How long does it take to do it?
It depends on the starting point. From Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago They are some 780 km, and usually takes between 30 and 35 days walking at a leisurely pace.
Where do you sleep?
Mainly in pilgrim hostels (public or private). There are also hostels, guesthouses, and hotels. Hostels are usually affordable and shared.
What is the Pilgrim's Credential?
It is an official document that identifies you as a pilgrim. It is used to access hostels and to seal it every day, which is necessary to obtain the Compostela upon arriving in Santiago.
What is the Compostela?
It is the official certificate which certifies that you have completed the Camino. It is handed in at the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago if you have walked at least 100 km or you cycled 200 km.
How heavy should the backpack be?
A backpack between 6 and 8 kilos (without water or food) is recommended.
Is it safe to do it alone?
Yes, it's very safe. The Camino is well-marked and packed with pilgrims from all over the world. Many people walk it alone and end up naturally forming groups.
Is there cell phone and internet signal?
Yes. Most of the time there is mobile coverage. Many shelters offer it. Free Wi-Fi. They can also use useful apps like Buen Camino or Gronze.
Where do you wash clothes?
Almost all hostels have washing machines, dryers or hand washing areas. Bringing two changes of clothes is enough.
Do I have to be physically fit?
You don't need to be an athlete, but it's a good idea to prepare a little. The Camino is more of a mental challenge than a physical one, and the important thing is to do it at your own pace.
What is the Camino de Santiago Plateau?
It is known as the Plateau The central stretch that crosses the vast plains of Castile and León. It's a region of flat terrain, grain fields, open skies, and long, straight paths. Although it may seem monotonous at first glance, for many pilgrims, it's one of the most introspective and spiritual parts of the journey, where the silence and endless horizon invite one to look within.
Annex: Stages of the French Way
The French Way is divided into approximately 33 stages (days), although pilgrims can adapt them to their needs. Some may take less time if they walk more kilometers per day, while others may take longer if they walk fewer kilometers or take rest days.
It's hard to remember the names of each town where you'll spend the night, and it ends up being somewhat irrelevant at some point. It helps to know in advance what we'll see there or the major cities we'll pass through, but beyond that, internalizing it... it doesn't make much sense.
In any case, it's worth knowing the distances, difficulty, and main attractions of each stage. To this end, I'm going to group them according to the different autonomous communities we'll cover in Spain. They share a common geography, history, landscapes, and culture.
Map of the stages of the Camino de Santiago, French route
Navarra (Stages 1 to 4)
This part of the Camino de Santiago is characterized by having a mountainous terrain (we are in the Pyrenees), forests, and we find the first historic towns of the Camino.
Must-sees in Navarre: Crossing of the Pyrenees, Alto del Perdón, old town of Pamplona.
Video of the first weeks of the Camino de Santiago, walking through Navarre and La Rioja, crossing the Pyrenees and vineyards.
1. Saint Jean Pied de Port – Roncesvalles
Distance |
25 km |
Difficulty |
High |
Estimated Duration |
7-9 am |
Crossing the Pyrenees, one of the most demanding stages but one of the most rewarding with those beautiful views.
Stage 1 Highlights:
- Crossing the Pyrenees
- Spectacular mountain landscapes
- Collegiate Church of Roncesvalles
2. Roncesvalles – Zubiri
Distance |
22 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
5-6 hours |
Steep descents and lush forests. A green landscape with picturesque villages.
Stage 2 Highlights:
- Descent with forests and medieval bridges.
- Navarrese forests
- Medieval Rabia Bridge in Zubiri
3. Zubiri – Pamplona
Distance |
20 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
A comfortable path that takes us to the first big city: Pamplona.
Stage 3 Highlights:
- First major city on the Camino
- Historic center and walls
- Pamplona Cathedral
4. Pamplona – Puente la Reina
Distance |
24 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
6 hours |
Climb to Alto del Perdón, with its iconic pilgrim sculpture. Great views and a technical descent.
Stage 4 Highlights:
- I pass by the iconic Iron Cross.
- Alto del Perdón (pilgrim sculptures and panoramic views)
- Medieval bridge over the Arga River
La Rioja (Stages 5 to 9)
The La Rioja section is characterized by finding tland of vineyards, gastronomy, and towns with a strong pilgrimage tradition.
Must-sees in La Rioja: Wineries, Wine Fountain, Laurel Street in Logroño.
5. Queen Bridge – Estella
Distance |
22 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
Medieval villages and rural landscapes. Relaxing stretch.
Stage 5 Highlights:
- Country roads with beautiful views.
- Romanesque churches in towns like Cirauqui and Lorca
- Good wine and gastronomy
6. Estella – Los Arcos
Distance |
21 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
A stretch of vineyards, olive groves, and wineries. Nearby is the famous Irache wine fountain (open only for a few hours a day).
Stage 6 Highlights:
- Wine-growing area with the famous wine fountain in Irache.
- Wine Fountain (Irache Wineries)
- Vineyard landscape
7. Los Arcos – Logroño
Distance |
27 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
6-7 hours |
Entrance to La Rioja. A long but attractive stretch. Arriving in a city with excellent cuisine.
Stage 7 Highlights:
- Entry into La Rioja
- Laurel Street (tapas)
- Co-Cathedral of Logroño
8. Logroño – Nájera
Distance |
29 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
6-7 hours |
Grain fields, vineyards, and rural trails. A long but manageable stage.
Stage 8 Highlights:
- Vineyards and endless fields.
- Vineyards
- Monastery of Santa María la Real
9. Nájera – Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Distance |
21 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
We arrived in a city with one of the most famous legends of the Camino: the miracle of the rooster and the hen.
Stage 9 Highlights:
- Jacobean history and traditions.
- Rooster and hen in the cathedral
- Story of the miracle of the hanged pilgrim
Castile and León (Stages 10 to 27)
Castile and León is the The largest region of the French Way. We'll move from the eternal plateau to the mountainous ascent toward Galicia.
Must-sees in Castile and León: Burgos Cathedral, Castilian plateau, Cruz de Ferro, Ponferrada Castle, O Cebreiro.
Video of the days on the Camino de Santiago Plateau, in the community of Castile and León
10. Santo Domingo – Belorado
Distance |
22 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
Rural roads, less vehicle traffic. Quiet and flat.
Stage 10 Highlights:
- Quiet paths between cultivated fields.
- Rural area, small towns
- Hermitage of Our Lady of the Rock
11. Belorado – San Juan de Ortega
Distance |
24 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
6 hours |
We enter the Sierra de la Demanda. Gentle but continuous climbs.
Stage 11 Highlights:
- First contact with the Oca mountains.
- Oca Mountains
- Monastery of San Juan de Ortega
12. San Juan de Ortega – Burgos
Distance |
26 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
6-7 hours |
A long stage towards one of the most beautiful cities on the Camino, with its impressive cathedral.
Stage 12 Highlights:
- Entrance to Burgos, with its impressive Gothic cathedral.
- Burgos Cathedral (World Heritage Site)
- Historic center
13. Burgos – Hontanas
Distance |
31 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
7 hours |
The Plateau begins. An endless, silent plain.
Stage 13 Highlights:
- Castilian plateau
- Quiet and typical town
14. Hontanas – Frómista
Distance |
34 km |
Difficulty |
High (by length) |
Estimated Duration |
7-8 hours |
A long day in open fields. Requires careful planning of water and rest.
Stage 14 Highlights:
- Flat and open roads.
- Mostelares Hill
- Church of San Martín in Frómista
15. Fromista – Carrion de los Condes
Distance |
20 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
More plateau, but interesting towns and a good pilgrim atmosphere.
Stage 15 Highlights:
- Rural areas with medieval architecture.
- Canal of Castilla
- Monastery of San Zoilo
16. Carrión – Calzadilla de la Cueza
Distance |
17 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
A 16-km stretch of land with no towns. Isolated and reflective.
Stage 16 Highlights:
- Stage with Templar history.
- Long and lonely stretch
- Ancient lands of the Templars
17. Calzadilla – Sahagún
Distance |
22 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
Simple stage with arrival in a city with rich religious history.
Stage 17 Highlights:
- The Roman Road (Via Aquitana)
- Ledigos and Terradillos of the Templars
- Midpoint of the French Way
18. Sahagún – El Burgo Ranero
Distance |
18 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4 hours |
Eternal straight lines between fields of grain.
Stage 18 Highlights:
- Endless straight lines on the plateau.
- Route through the Leonese plateau
- Church of St. Peter
19. The Ranero Village – Mansilla de las Mulas
Distance |
19 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
A dull but pleasant day. A good place to rest upon arrival.
Stage 19 Highlights:
- Quiet and traditional villages
- Roman bridge
20. Mansilla – León
Distance |
19 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
Entrance to a big city. Ideal for stopping and recharging your batteries.
Stage 20 Highlights:
- Arrival in the historic city of León, with its magnificent cathedral.
- León Cathedral (spectacular stained glass windows)
- Wet Neighborhood
21. León – Villar de Mazarife
Distance |
21 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
Alternative route to the highway. Quiet and with less asphalt.
Stage 21 Highlights:
- Urban exit of León
- A quieter alternative to the N-120
22. Villar de Mazarife – Astorga
Distance |
30 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
7 hours |
A long but beautiful stretch, arriving in a city with Gaudi-style architecture.
Stage 22 Highlights:
- City with the modernist influence of Gaudí.
- Gaudí's Episcopal Palace
- Astorga Cathedral
- Maragato stew
23. Astorga – Rabanal del Camino
Distance |
21 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
We climbed into the mountains. The weather was good and the atmosphere was rural.
Stage 23 Highlights:
- Beginning of the ascent to the Cruz de Ferro.
- Door to the mountain
- Maragata architecture
24. Rabanal – Ponferrada
Distance |
32 km |
Difficulty |
High |
Estimated Duration |
8 hours |
We cross the Cruz de Ferro, one of the most symbolic points. A steep descent toward Ponferrada.
Stage 24 Highlights:
- Steep descent with spectacular views.
- Iron Cross
- Templar castle in Ponferrada
25. Ponferrada – Villafranca del Bierzo
Distance |
24 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
6 hours |
We passed through vineyards in El Bierzo. Villafranca is very picturesque.
Stage 25 Highlights:
- Vineyards and entry into Galicia.
- Old town of Ponferrada
- Church of Santiago (Gate of Forgiveness)
26. Villafranca – O Cebreiro
Distance |
28 km |
Difficulty |
High |
Estimated Duration |
8 hours |
A tough but epic stage. We enter Galicia by climbing to the magical village of O Cebreiro.
Stage 26 Highlights:
- One of the most demanding climbs.
- Celtic village of O Cebreiro
- Pre-Romanesque churches
27. O Cebreiro – Triacastela
Distance |
21 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
Gentle descents and typical Galician green landscape.
Stage 27 Highlights:
- Stunning mountain landscapes.
- Spectacular Galician views
- Alto do Poio
Galicia (Stages 28 to 33)
The last community on the French Way, Galicia. It is characterized by having green landscapes, frequent rain and the most emotional stretch of the Camino.
Unmissable sights in Galicia: Welsh villages, Santiago de Compostela, green mountain landscapes
Video of the final days of the Camino de Santiago, in Galicia and Finisterre
28. Triacastela – Sarria
Distance |
18 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
A very peaceful route. The minimum required to obtain the Compostela certificate begins here.
Stage 28 Highlights:
- Two routes: via San Xil (shorter) or Samos (Monastery)
- Entrance to the most popular stage of the Camino
29. Sarria – Portomarín
Distance |
22 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
5-6 hours |
First day with many new pilgrims. Gentle ups and downs.
Stage 29 Highlights:
- Starting point for many pilgrims (minimum 100 km)
- Bridge over the Miño River
30. Portomarín – Palas de Rei
Distance |
25 km |
Difficulty |
Average |
Estimated Duration |
6 hours |
Typical Galician stretch, with many paths and green areas.
Stage 30 Highlights:
- Path between Galician forests and villages.
- Gentle climbs
- Rural churches
31. Palas de Rei – Arzúa
Distance |
29 km |
Difficulty |
High |
Estimated Duration |
7 hours |
Long, but with good services. Several towns to stop in.
Stage 31 Highlights:
- Long stage, but with a good pilgrim atmosphere.
- Galician landscape with forests and villages
- Melide Cross
32. Arzúa – O Pedrouzo
Distance |
20 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
4-5 hours |
Relaxed stretch before the grand finale. A day for reflection.
Stage 32 Highlights:
- Last night before arriving in Santiago.
- Quiet stretch
- Many services for pilgrims
33. O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela
Distance |
20 km |
Difficulty |
Low |
Estimated Duration |
5 hours |
Final stage. Emotional, long-awaited, celebratory. The entrance to the Plaza del Obradoiro is unforgettable.
Stage 33 Highlights:
- Entrance to the Plaza del Obradoiro and the Cathedral.
- Monte do Gozo (view of the cathedral towers)
- Excitement upon arriving at Plaza del Obradoiro and the Cathedral of Santiago