Surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery in the Caucasus, Kazbegi, officially Stepantsminda, is one of Georgia's most iconic destinations. Located just a few hours from Tbilisi, this small mountain village combines nature, local traditions, and the imposing backdrop of Mount Kazbek, one of the highest peaks in the country at over 5,000 meters. It's a place that will captivate both those looking to go trekking and those who simply want to enjoy unforgettable views.
Beyond its famous postcard image of the Gergeti Trinity Church crowning the mountainside, Kazbegi offers much more: hiking trails, traditional villages tucked into the valleys, hot springs, waterfalls, and more. It is, without a doubt, a must-see for anyone traveling through Georgia and wanting to experience the grandeur of the Caucasus up close.
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Why is Kazbegi so popular among Georgians?
For Georgians themselves, Kazbegi is much more than a tourist destination: it's a symbol of the country's natural and cultural beauty. Its proximity to Tbilisi makes it a very accessible weekend getaway, ideal for those looking to escape the city and breathe in the fresh mountain air.
Furthermore, Mount Kazbek and the Gergeti Church are part of the national collective imagination, places seen on postcards, books, and even in Georgia's visual identity. Coming here means reconnecting with mountain landscapes, local traditions, and the hospitality that is part of Georgian pride. That's why families and groups of friends often choose Kazbegi to spend a few days surrounded by nature, hiking, and good traditional food.
How to get to Kazbegi from Tbilisi
The most common way to get to Kazbegi is via the Georgian Military Highway, one of the most scenic roads in the country. The drive takes between 3 and 4 hours and offers incredible scenery: lakes, snow-capped mountains, ancient fortresses, and even the Jvari Pass, at over 2,000 meters above sea level.
The cheapest option is to take a marshrutka (shared minibus) from Didube Station in Tbilisi. They depart frequently throughout the day and the trip costs little (around 15 leri), making it the preferred option for backpackers.
You can also hire a shared taxi or a private car, which offers more convenience and the possibility of making stops along the way to enjoy places like the Zhinvali Reservoir or the Ananuri Fortress.
Another alternative is to join a day trip, although it is recommended to stay at least one night in Kazbegi to make the most of it.
What to do in Kazbegi
Kazbegi is one of Georgia's most popular destinations and a true paradise for mountain lovers. Surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of the Caucasus, this small town has become the ideal base for exploring the region. Among the top activities to do in Kazbegi are:
Do you want to follow my routes precisely?
Download the KML/KMZ files of all the treks I did in Kazbegi, including the Gergeti Glacier, Juta Valley, Truso Valley, and Arsha Waterfall, and open them in apps like Maps.me or Gaia GPS to get the complete route offline. This is ideal if you want to navigate the valley with confidence, even without a signal.
Get the Kazbegi files from Gumroad for a small contribution.
Visit the Gergeti Trinity Church
The Gergeti Trinity Church (Gergeti Sameba) is the great icon of Kazbegi and one of the most recognizable images in all of Georgia.
Built in the 14th century, it stands at an altitude of 2,170 meters, on a hill overlooking the entire valley, with Mount Kazbek in the background. Its location, surrounded by mountains, gives it a magical feel, and it's impossible not to be impressed upon arrival.
How to get to Gergeti Trinity Church
From the center of Stepantsminda (the base city of Kazbegi) there are two ways to go up:
- The most convenient way is by taxi or jeep, which waits in the main square and takes you to the church in about 20-30 minutes along a mountain road.
- For those who prefer walking, there's a trail that starts practically in the village and ascends in an hour and a half to two, depending on your pace. The climb is challenging because it's quite steep, but it's well marked, and each step offers better views of the valley.
Once at the top, besides visiting the church, what really impresses is the panoramic view: a horizon of the Caucasus Mountains that makes the effort totally worth it.
Trekking to the Gergeti Glacier
Another must-do in Kazbegi is the trekking to the Gergeti Glacier, an adventure that allows you to get even closer to the majesty of Mount Kazbek (5,047 m).
Many travelers combine a visit to the church with the start of this hike, as the trail to the mountain begins from Gergeti.
The trek is long and demanding: it can take between 6 and 8 hours of walking in total, with steep inclines at times.
Two main trails lead to the glacier from Gergeti Church. The first begins at the parking lot, a popular spot for sunset viewing, and quickly ascends the slope, consistently offering spectacular views of Mount Kazbek throughout the entire hike.
The second option appears at a fork to the left: a path that climbs more gradually, crosses a mountain pass and reaches a small cabin, where it eventually joins the other path.
The trail passes through meadows, crosses streams, and as you gain altitude, the views of Mount Kazbek and the rest of the Caucasus become increasingly spectacular.
During the hike, you'll also pass a couple of cabins where you can eat something or even spend the night for those who want to split the hike into two days.
What it's like to reach the Gergeti Glacier with snow
When I did this trek, in late October, the trail was completely covered in snow, which made the walk slower and more tiring, and the glacier was covered in snow, making it difficult to see in its entirety.
However, you could see some impressive ice caves that had formed, giving a special touch to the landscape.
If you have the energy to continue along the edge of the glacier a little further, you can see in the distance the last refuge used by climbers reaching the summit of Kazbek. I saw it from a distance, but I didn't continue there because I was too tired in the snow.
In any case, reaching the glacier was a goal accomplished, and returning in time to watch the sunset from Gergeti Church brought the day to an unforgettable close.
Excursion to Juta Valley and Chaukhi Mountains
The Juta Valley is another of the most popular destinations in the Kazbegi region, ideal for those seeking rugged mountains. The small village of Juta is located about 20 km from Stepantsminda, and the most common way to get there is by taxi or private vehicle; there is no public transportation.
Trekking in the Juta Valley can be done in a single day and requires no technical experience, although the terrain is mountainous and physical fitness is recommended. During the trek, you walk along the river and reach Chaukhi Lake, one of the valley's main attractions. Then, if you have the energy and time, you can continue to the Chaukhi Mountain Pass.
You can discover the whole experience in my post about visiting the Juta Valley.
Excursion to the Truso Valley
The Truso Valley is one of the most fascinating landscapes in the Kazbegi region, and for me it was one of the most recommended visits in the region.
Along the route you will pass through various points of interest, such as the small monastery located in the village of Abano, the ruins of ancient villages that recall times gone by, the travertines of Ketrisi (where the water and rocks have reddish and orange tones), and finally the ruins of an ancient fortress on a hill, from where the panoramic views of the valley are beautiful.
You can read more in the post I wrote describing the full experience of going to the Truso Valley.
Hike to Arsha Waterfall
Among the short and accessible hikes from Kazbegi, Arsha Waterfall is a great option for those looking for a more peaceful walk.
You can walk directly from Kazbegi, hitchhike along the route, or take a taxi to the village of Arsha.
The route is pleasant, as you pass through several typical villages before arriving, with their traditional houses, grazing animals, and the backdrop always dominated by the Caucasus Mountains.
The hike culminates at the Arsha Double Waterfall, a picturesque waterfall that falls in two levels and is easily reached.
For those who still have energy, it's worth continuing a little further up, where the ruins of an ancient fortress are located.
Although very little of the building remains, the high location offers a spectacular panoramic view of the valley and surrounding mountains, making the hike a very complete half-day experience.
Geleti Waterfall
Another recommended hike in the area is the one that leads to the Geleti Waterfall, located towards the Russian border. To get there, you can take a taxi, a excursion, a private car, or even hitchhiking along the road that leads to the Darial Pass.
From the detour, the hike isn't very long, although it does follow steeper and somewhat less-traveled trails than other hikes in Kazbegi.
The waterfall cascades into a rocky setting surrounded by high walls. The water cascades powerfully from above, and depending on the time of year, it can be surrounded by snow or a deep green in the summer months. It's a much less visited spot than Arsha or the valleys, ideal for those looking for something more relaxing and off the beaten track.
Organized activities in Kazbegi
Is it possible to climb to the top of Mount Kazbek?
Yes, it is possible to climb to the summit of Mount Kazbek (5,033 m), but it is not an easy hike or a classic trek like the Juta or Truso valleys. Climbing this mountain requires mountaineering experience, good physical condition, and technical equipment (crampons, rope, ice axe, etc.), as much of the route is over glaciers and areas at risk of crevasses. The most common route starts at Gergeti Church and passes through the Meteo Refuge (at about 3,600 m), from where the final attempt at the summit is made.
Most travelers seeking to reach the summit do so with local mountain guides, who know the terrain well and organize 4- to 6-day expeditions. For those without previous experience, the trekking routes around Kazbegi are equally spectacular and much more accessible.
Crossing into Russia from Kazbegi
Kazbegi is very close to the Russian border, at the Dariali pass, which connects Georgia with North Ossetia (a Russian region). It is the only land border crossing open to international traffic between the two countries. The distance from Stepantsminda to the border crossing is only about 15 km.
However:
- Crossing is only permitted by vehicle (buses from Tbilisi, private cars, taxis, or trucks); walking is not permitted.
- You will need a Russian visa if your nationality requires it (Georgians cannot enter Russia with just their passport).
- The pass is open year-round, but may be temporarily closed in winter due to snow, avalanches, or landslides.
- Once on the Russian side, the first major city is Vladikavkaz, about 30 km from the border.
In practice, many travelers use this crossing to combine a trip between Georgia and the Russian Caucasus, although it is advisable to be well informed before doing so, because regulations can change and there are sometimes strict controls.
Where to stay in Kazbegi
Kazbegi is one of Georgia's most popular tourist destinations, so the accommodation options are wide and varied. Although the town isn't very large, it's a good idea to choose a place close to the center if you don't have your own car, as it's easier to get around, find transportation, and access restaurants and shops from there.
I stayed at The White House, a place ideal for travelers. It has a small kitchen that encourages interaction between guests and makes it a perfect space for socializing and meeting people along the way. It's also comfortable and has a relaxed atmosphere, making it a great option for those looking for something simple but with a good backpacker vibe.
Another interesting alternative is to stay in Gergeti, the village located across the river. There are also guesthouses and family-run hotels that allow you to enjoy a quieter setting and be closer to the trail leading to the famous Trinity Church. This is a good choice for those who prioritize tranquility and want to wake up with a direct view of the mountains.
When is the best time to go to Kazbegi?
The best time to travel to Kazbegi depends on what you want to experience. The most popular season is from June to September, when the weather is mild, the mountain trails are clear, and you can hike through the Juta and Truso valleys without any snow problems. During these months, the landscapes are green and vibrant, perfect for enjoying the nature of the Caucasus.
If you're looking for a quieter, less touristy atmosphere, autumn (October) offers spectacular colors with cool temperatures. In winter, Kazbegi transforms into a destination for snow lovers and skiers in Gudauri, although many trekking trails may be inaccessible.
Spring, between April and May, can be a time of transition: the valleys begin to open up, but the weather is somewhat more unstable.
How many days to stay in Kazbegi?
The ideal number of days in Kazbegi depends on what you want to do, but in general, at least two nights are recommended to fully enjoy it. With that time, you can visit Gergeti Church, hike to the glacier, and explore some of the nearby valleys.
If you have 3 or 4 days, even better: it will give you time to explore both Juta and Truso, as well as enjoy the atmosphere of the town and its surroundings more calmly.
On the other hand, those who are short on time can visit Kazbegi on a day trip from Tbilisi, although it's quite rushed, many hours of travel, and you'd miss out on the true essence of the region.
My personal thoughts on Kazbegi
Kazbegi left a deep impression on me. It's a region truly worth visiting: it has so much to offer, from epic landscapes like the Gergeti Church with Mount Kazbek in the background, to the incredible views on hikes to the glacier, to the valleys that invite you to get lost among the mountains. Plus, its proximity to Tbilisi and easy access via the Georgian Military Highway make it a very tempting destination for any traveler.
However, if I had to choose the region that captivated me the most in Georgia, I would choose Mestia and Svaneti. There I found a unique mix of lush forests, medieval villages with their stone towers, and mountains as imposing as those of Kazbegi, but with an even more magical and remote feel.
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