Traveling from Tbilisi to Kazbegi is not just a journey to reach a destination, but an experience in itself. The famous Georgia Military Highway passes through mountains, valleys, and towns steeped in history, offering epic landscapes that make the hours of travel fly by. It's one of those routes where it's worth taking your time and stopping at the various points of interest along the way.
Along the way, you can visit medieval fortresses, churches, viewpoints, lakes, and picturesque villages, each with its own unique charm. From the monumental Ananuri Fortress to the Jvari Pass, the stops make the journey a sort of full excursion before reaching the Caucasus Mountains. In this post, I'll tell you about the places you can't miss on the route between Tbilisi and Kazbegi.
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Why is it called the Georgian Military Highway?
The route connecting Tbilisi with Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) is known as the Georgian Military Highway due to its strategic role in the history of the Caucasus. For centuries, it was one of the main corridors connecting Russia with Georgia and, more broadly, the North and South Caucasus.
During the Russian Empire, especially from the 19th century onward, it became a key military route for controlling the region. Its name comes from the fact that it was used by Russian troops to mobilize and maintain their influence in the Caucasus territories. In fact, it was expanded and reinforced precisely to ensure the passage of armies and supplies through the mountains, amidst ongoing border conflicts.
Nowadays, far from its military use, the road has been transformed into one of the most scenic and tourist routes in the country, although it still retains its importance as a strategic connection between Georgia and Russia. For travelers, traveling along it means traversing spectacular landscapes while also following in the footsteps of centuries of history in this key region of the Caucasus.
Practical information about the Georgian Military Highway
The Georgian Military Highway connects Tbilisi with Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) over approximately 150 kilometers. The drive usually takes between 3 and 4 hours, depending on traffic and stops along the way, as there are many places to stop.
One of the most impressive aspects of the route is the altitude. The road crosses the Jvari Pass, the highest point, located at 2,379 meters above sea level. From there, the views of the Greater Caucasus Mountains are spectacular, especially in winter, when the area is often covered in snow.
Although the road is paved and generally in good condition, it's important to keep in mind that snow and ice can occur in winter, making some sections slower or even temporarily closed. In summer, however, it's much more accessible and an unforgettable experience for those who want to enjoy one of Georgia's most beautiful trails.
Must see stops on the Georgian Military Highway
Mtskheta and Svetitsjoveli Cathedral
Before entering the mountains, the first almost obligatory stop is Mtskheta, the former capital of the country and considered the cradle of Christianity in Georgia.
Its main attraction is the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built in the 11th century, it is one of the most important temples of the Georgian Orthodox Church and a spiritual symbol of the country.
Strolling through the streets of Mtskheta is also a lovely experience, with small stalls, cafes, and views of the river.
Zhinvali Reservoir Viewpoint
Continuing along the route, one of the most photogenic landscapes of the journey appears: the Zhinvali Water Reservoir. This turquoise reservoir surrounded by mountains can be seen from a viewpoint along the road, where most travelers pause to take photos.
Depending on the time of year, the water's color changes from shades of green to deep blue, offering a spectacular contrast with the mountainous landscape.
Ananuri Fortress
Very close to the reservoir is the Ananuri Fortress, one of the most impressive points on the road.
This is a 17th-century defensive complex that protected the Aragvi River valley. Its towers, walls, and church interior are very well preserved, and walking through it is like stepping back in time.
The photos with the fortress in the foreground and the reservoir in the background are some of the most iconic of the trip, a postcard you can't miss.
Gudauri and its surroundings
Another interesting point along the way is Gudauri, a small mountain village that has become one of the most important tourist centers in Georgia, especially in winter. Cabins and hotels predominate here, and they are often filled with local tourists who come to ski, as the area boasts some of the most renowned ski slopes and resorts in the region.
Beyond the winter season, Gudauri also has much to offer throughout the year. Its mountains and open valleys lend themselves to outdoor activities, with paragliding being one of the most popular. From the air, the views of the Caucasus are simply spectacular and a sought-after experience for those who visit.
Gudauri Monument
Further on, past the village and further up the road, you reach the Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument in Gudauri, built in 1983.
It is a large semicircular structure adorned with colorful murals depicting scenes from the shared history of both countries.
Beyond its political symbolism, what makes it unforgettable is its location on a cliff with panoramic views of the valley. The contrast between the murals and the mountainous landscape is one of the most striking things to see on the route.
Jvari Pass
The highest point on the road is the Jvari Pass, at 2,379 meters above sea level. The views from here are simply spectacular, with mountains that seem endless.
Depending on the time of year, the landscape can vary from green meadows in summer to snow-capped mountains in winter.
The last stretch to Kazbegi
After the Jvari Pass, the last stretch begins until reaching Kazbegi (Stepantsminda), surrounded by valleys and mountains that anticipate the majesty of Mount Kazbek.
The final stretch is a visual delight, and arriving at the village with the Gergeti Church high above the landscape is one of the most iconic images in all of Georgia.
Can you visit them on your own?
Yes, all of the places I mentioned along the Georgian Military Highway can be visited independently, as long as you have a car or rental vehicle. By driving, you'll be able to stop at each site freely, take your time taking photos, and enjoy the scenery at your own pace. Plus, the road is in good condition for most of the route, so it shouldn't present any major difficulties.
Now, if you don't have a car, things get a little more complicated. There are marshrutkas (minibuses) that connect Tbilisi with Kazbegi, but they don't stop at the main points of interest along the route, except in the final village. You can try combining public transportation with walking or taxis, but it's considerably more cumbersome and takes much longer.
Therefore, if you're planning to experience the entire road and see its main attractions in a single day, it's best to book an organized tour. They depart from Tbilisi and usually include all the important stops, a guide, and free time in Kazbegi. This way, you can make the most of your day without worrying about logistics.
My thougths and recommendations on the Military Highway
Traveling along Georgia's Military Highway is a true pleasure. Beyond the scenery itself, each stop along the way offers something unique, so I recommend taking your time at each site and taking your time.
What I liked most were the Ananuri Fortress, with its strategic location facing the reservoir, and the Gudauri Monument, which I found imposing both for its design and for the mountainous environment in which it is located.
I've seen day tours that depart from Tbilisi, make all the stops, arrive in Kazbegi, and then return the same day. Personally, I find this too condensed. The route is long, and while it's doable, it ends up being a tiring and rushed trip. If you choose the tour option, my recommendation is clear: don't return to Tbilisi the same day. Staying at least one night in Kazbegi allows you to enjoy the experience calmly, take advantage of the scenery at sunrise or sunset, and truly connect with this region of the Caucasus.