Lake Khovsgol, the second largest lake in Mongolia and often called "the little brother of Lake Baikal in Russia", is one of the most beautiful spots in the north of the country.
Surrounded by forested mountains and vast meadows where yaks and horses graze, this crystal-clear lake exudes tranquility. But even though it's a destination that primarily combines nature and picture-postcard landscapes, it didn't completely win me over.
In this post you will find practical information to organize your visit to Lake Khovsgol, from how to get there from Ulaanbaatar or Mörön, how much time you should spend there, where to stay, what activities you can do and what to really expect from the place.
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Location and surroundings of Lake Khovsgol
Lake Khovsgol is located in the far north of Mongolia, very close to the Russian border, and is part of the same geographic and tectonic region as Siberia. In fact, both this lake and the famous Lake Baikal share a common origin: they are located within the Great Eurasian Tectonic Rift, which explains their depth and crystal-clear waters.
Being here is, in some ways, like being in Siberia. The landscape combines endless coniferous forests, green meadows, and mountains surrounding the lake basin, creating a completely different environment than the one we usually imagine when we think of Mongolia and its arid steppes.
Furthermore, the climate is also colder and wetter, with extremely harsh winters and short but intensely green summers. All this makes Khovsgol considered not only "Baikal's little brother," but also one of the most unique and diverse places in the country.
How to get to Lake Khovsgol
The most common access point is the city of Moron (see location on map), which has an airport and road connections from Ulaanbaatar. From there, the lake is about 100 km away, and you can get there by shared taxi, local van or by hiring private transport to Khatgal (see location), the small village on the shores of the lake.
The price of this last taxi ride can vary between 15,000 and 30,000 tugruk, depending on how full it is.
By bus to Moron from Ulaanbaatar and hitchhiking to Khatgal
To purchase tickets for the bus connecting Ulaanbaatar to Moron, a convenient option is to do so through Tapatrip, a widely used online platform in Mongolia for booking ground transportation. It allows you to check schedules, prices, and secure your seat in advance, avoiding the need to go to the terminal to purchase one.
The trip takes about 12 hours and generally departs Ulan Bator at night, arriving in Moron the next morning. As soon as you get off the bus, several taxi drivers approach you offering a ride to Khatgal, although in my case, I preferred to try my luck hitchhiking to the lake.
I walked to the northern exit of the city, the road that goes straight to Khatgal, and waited for someone to pick me up. It wasn't more than half an hour before a family on vacation invited me in.
No one spoke English, except for one child who was just learning it at school, which made communication limited but friendly. We made a few stops along the way, and upon arriving in Khatgal, I was invited to eat at a yurt where I sampled local meat-laden dishes.
However, what seemed like a friendly and hospitable encounter with local people ended up being a bit disappointing for me. Before dropping me off at my hostel, the boy, on behalf of his mother, asked me for money for the trip, and it wasn't a small sum.
I was surprised because I thought they had done it as a gesture of hospitality, not as a paid service. I didn't argue, since it was my mistake not to ask before getting in the car, but be aware that in Central Asia, these things often happen. I ended up paying and never saw them again.
What to do at Lake Khovsgol
Activities at Lake Khovsgol depend a lot on your travel plan: whether you go with an organized tour, book individual excursions, or prefer to keep it economical and travel on your own.
If you're looking to spend little, the main options are to enjoy the tranquility on the coast, simply contemplating the lake and its scenery, or to set off to explore the endless trails that line its shores.
I opted for the latter and walked about 20 kilometers one way along the west coast, the most attractive route. The path led me up a hill from where I had some of the best views of my time in Khatgal (see location), a perfect contrast between the forest and the deep blue waters of the lake.
The trail extends much further, but doing the complete loop would take several days of hiking, so I decided to turn back after reaching the viewpoint and rest for a while.
If you're willing to pay for activities, however, the offerings at Lake Khovsgol are quite extensive. One of the most popular are the boat trips that tour different parts of the lake, a good way to get a sense of its size and see the landscape from another perspective.
There are also horseback riding, which can last from a few hours to expeditions of several days, going into forests, mountains and remote camps. Many of these long outings include a visit to nomadic communities that live with reindeer, an experience highly sought after by tourists who travel to this region.
Tsaatan ethnic group, the reindeer people
One of the most unique features of northern Mongolia is the presence of ethnic groups who raise and live with reindeer in their daily lives. These are people with ancient traditions who depend on these animals not only as a means of transportation but also as part of their cultural and spiritual identity.
Reaching them on your own is not possible, as they are usually in remote and very difficult-to-access areas, and it is the tours or guides who coordinate the visits and give them money in exchange for allowing interaction with the tourists.
Where to stay on Lake Khovsgol
Khatgal is a small village located at the southern tip of Lake Khovsgol and is often the most convenient place to base yourself. Almost any accommodation is within a relatively short walk of the shore, allowing you to walk to the docks or start some of the trails that border the lake. Its compact size makes it very convenient to get around on foot, without the need for additional transportation.
Most travelers stay in gers (traditional yurts) around the lake, which operate as tourist camps run by local families. It's one of the best ways to connect with nomadic life while enjoying simple yet authentic accommodations.
There are also many hostels and guesthouses in Khatgal, ideal for backpackers, offering both standard rooms and gers in their own gardens, giving you the opportunity to choose the experience that appeals most to you. Several of these places also operate as restaurants, making your stay much easier.
A good example is Energy Guest House, where I stayed. There you can eat and sleep at the same time, whichever option you prefer.
Spending at least two nights is recommended, as the surroundings invite you to linger and enjoy the experience at a leisurely pace.
What is the best time to visit Lake Khovsgol?
The best time to visit Lake Khovsgol is during the summer, between June and September, when temperatures are pleasant and the surroundings are at their most beautiful. During these months, the days are long, the weather is more stable, and the forests and meadows surrounding the lake are a deep green. It's also the ideal time for outdoor activities such as hiking, boating, and horseback riding.
Outside of these months, the landscape changes drastically. Winter in this region is very harsh: temperatures drop to tens of degrees below zero and the lake freezes completely, becoming a natural highway that locals use to get around.
While visiting in winter can be a unique experience, especially during the Ice Festival in March, it is not an easy trip for most travelers, as the extreme weather conditions make it challenging.
Therefore, unless you have a particular interest in the Mongolian winter, it's recommended to plan your visit for summer, when access is easier and you can fully enjoy the scenery and activities.
How many days to stay at Lake Khovsgol
You don't need too much time to enjoy Lake Khovsgol, although it depends on the type of trip you're looking for. I spent 4 days, taking it easy, enjoying the scenery and walking along the trails without rushing. But with 2 days you can get a good impression of the lake and its surroundings, especially if your plan is just to explore and relax.
However, keep in mind that getting here involves a long journey from Ulaanbaatar, so for a very short stay it might feel a bit rushed.
How to get back to Ulan Bator from Khatgal and Lake Khovsgol
To return to Ulaanbaatar, the most common option is to first return to Moron and from there take a bus to the capital. However, direct buses leave twice a week from Khatgal, at approximately 7:30 a.m., which make a stop in Moron before continuing on to the capital.
If you want to see the exact days or buy tickets, it is best to check at your hostel in Khatgal or use the official Mongolian transport app, as these buses are not usually available on TapaTrip
Final thoughts: Is Lake Khovsgol worth visiting?
The truth is that my visit to Lake Khovsgol left me with mixed feelings. On the one hand, the surroundings are truly beautiful: a green landscape covered in forests that resembles that of Lake Baikal in Russia, since both are part of the same geographical region.
What I enjoyed most was wandering along the shore, wandering away from the town until I felt completely alone, with the exception of a few campsites accessible by car. That silent solitude, along with those verdant landscapes, was, without a doubt, the highlight of the trip to Lake Khovsgol.
But on the other hand, I feel that if you don't dare to do some of the activities I mentioned before, whether it's a boat trip, a horseback ride, or a visit to the reindeer communities, the visit might fall a bit short. Especially since getting here from Ulaanbaatar takes quite a bit of time and effort, so coming just to relax by the lake might not be worth the trip.
In my opinion, it's worth it if you travel with an open mind to add some extra activities beyond simply gazing at the lake.
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Frequently Asked Questions about Lake Khovsgol
Is Lake Khovsgol worth visiting?
It depends. It's worthwhile if you're traveling with the intention of doing activities on the lake or visiting nearby communities. Although it's one of Mongolia's most stunning landscapes, there isn't much to explore on your own.
How many days are needed?
It's recommended to dedicate at least two full days to the trip, especially considering the long distances involved. This allows for hiking, horseback riding, or simply enjoying the surroundings at a leisurely pace.
How do you get to Lake Khovsgol?
You usually travel overland to the town of Mörön, and from there continue for a few hours by road to the lake. The journey can be long, and part of the road is unpaved.
Can it be visited independently?
Yes, it's easier than the Gobi. You can get to Mörön and arrange transport to the lake from there. During peak season, there are tourist camps and ger accommodations available.
Where do you sleep?
Most travelers stay in ger camps by the lake. The amenities are basic, but the surroundings more than make up for the simplicity.
What is the best time to go?
The best time to visit is between June and September. In winter the lake freezes over and access becomes much more difficult due to the extreme cold.
Is it cold in summer?
Yes, especially at night. Although daytime temperatures can be pleasant, it's advisable to bring a coat because the weather can change quickly.
What activities can be done?
Hiking, horseback riding, kayaking, boating, and visits to nomadic families in the region. It's a destination more focused on nature and outdoor activities than on monuments or urban culture.
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