I must admit that Izmir was the city that captivated me the least during my trip to Türkiye. Perhaps because I had just visited places with a much stronger historical and visual impact, or perhaps because I didn't find any sites that stood out from what I'd already seen in the country. Still, I found it interesting to explore and, above all, use it as a base to explore one of Turkey's most picturesque coastal towns.
Historically known as Smyrna, it was one of the most important cities of the ancient world and today is the third largest in the country, after Istanbul and Ankara. Although I didn't like it as much as other destinations, in this post I'm going to tell you what things are worth keeping in mind if you decide to visit, and what places might be interesting within a city that combines history, modernity and coastal life.
Table of Contents
Where is Izmir located?
Izmir is located on the west coast of Turkey, on the shores of the Aegean Sea. It is located in the Aegean region, approximately 480 kilometers from Istanbul and just over an hour from Selçuk, home to the famous archaeological site of Ephesus.
Its coastal location and Mediterranean climate make it a key connection point for those traveling along Turkey's west coast, whether to the north (Çeşme or Pergamon) or to the south (Kuşadası or Bodrum).
How to get to Izmir
Getting to Izmir is quite easy, as it's one of the best-connected cities in all of Turkey. If you're coming from Istanbul, you can fly; there are daily flights that take about an hour, or take a bus, which is cheaper but takes between 8 and 9 hours.
There are also frequent flights from Ankara, although if you prefer to travel by land, long-distance buses are a comfortable and safe option.
Another very practical alternative is to arrive by train or bus from Selçuk or Kuşadası, especially if you are visiting the Éphesus area.
The journeys are short (between 1 and 2 hours) and drop you directly in the centre of Izmir (see location). The city also has a modern metro, tram and ferry network, making it easy to get around once you arrive.
To organize your bus journeys, the most practical application is Obilet, very popular in Türkiye, which allows you to check schedules, compare companies and reserve seats directly from your cell phone.
Map of Izmir attractions and surrounding areas
Best things to see and do in Izmir
Although Izmir wasn't one of the cities that most captivated me in Türkiye, I must admit that it has several interesting places to visit that are worth at least a day's visit.
Featured neighborhoods to explore
Izmir is made up of several interesting neighborhoods that show different sides of the city:
- Alsancak: Modern, youthful, and with a lively nightlife. Ideal for dining out or having a drink by the sea.
- Konak: The historic center, where the iconic clock, the bazaar, and most of the cultural attractions are concentrated.
- Karşıyaka: On the other side of the bay, it has a more residential and relaxed atmosphere, perfect for walking along the seafront and observing local life.
Agora of Smyrna
One of the most important sites in the ancient city, the Agora of Smyrna preserves parts of its columns, arches, and underground vaults, giving an insight into what public life was like during the Roman Empire.
Admission is inexpensive, around 6 euros, and the site is well preserved, although it seemed quite small compared to other ruins I had seen in Türkiye.
You can check the opening hours and admission prices on the official ruins website.
Please note that to enter the Agora you can use either the Museum Pass which corresponds to the Aegean Region (“The Aegean Museum Pass”) or the National Pass, which is more expensive but includes everything from the Aegean and any other region in the country. To learn more about how the pass works, you can read the Guide I wrote for visiting Türkiye.
Kadifekale (Izmir Castle)
Situated on a hill with panoramic views of the city and the Aegean Sea, the Kadifekale (or “Velvet Castle”) is a perfect spot to watch the sunset.
To get there on foot, you have to go up through a working-class neighborhood with a humble, immigrant atmosphere, which gives the walk a colorful touch.
Inside the fortress, only the walls remain standing, as the interior has been converted into a park, so it's best to enjoy the views of all of Izmir and its bay.
If you don't want to walk up, you can also take a car or taxi to the entrance.
Walk along the Kordon
The Kordon is the most famous promenade in Izmir. Along its length, you'll find bars, restaurants, and plenty of local life, especially at sunset, when locals come out for a walk or to enjoy a cup of tea by the sea. It's a great place to relax after exploring the city.
Clock Tower (Saat Kulesi)
An undisputed symbol of the city, the Izmir Clock Tower is located in Konak Square, the heart of urban life.
It's one of the most photographed and recognizable places in all of Izmir. Surrounding it, pigeons, street vendors, and the constant bustle create a very typical Turkish scene.
The tower was built in 1901 during the Ottoman Empire, in honor of the 25th anniversary of Sultan Abdulhamid II.
Curiously, at that time many cities in the empire, such as Antalya or Istanbul, erected similar towers as a symbol of progress and modernity, in addition to serving to synchronize public life and prayers.
The clock was a gift from the German Emperor Wilhelm II, and it still works today, becoming one of the most enduring symbols of the Ottoman legacy in Izmir.
Kemeraltı Bazaar
The Kemeraltı Bazaar is the heart of local life. A maze of streets filled with traditional shops, food stalls, and old-fashioned cafes.
Ideal for getting lost, trying typical dishes such as boyoz (a type of local bread) or a good Turkish coffee.
İzmir Historical Elevator Building
This curious building, known as the Asansör, was built in 1907 to connect two parts of the Karataş neighborhood that were separated by a hill.
Today, it serves as a free viewing platform and has a restaurant with panoramic views. It's one of the most photogenic spots in the city, especially at dusk when the port lights begin to come on.
Boat trips around the bay
For a more relaxing experience, you can take a boat ride around the bay. There are local ferries that cross from one side to the other (such as those from Konak to Karşıyaka), and also sightseeing tours that travel along the coast at sunset.
It's a different way to see the city, from another perspective, and at the same time, a chance to escape the urban hustle and bustle for a while.
Getaways from Izmir
If you have a few extra days during your stay in Izmir, there are several nearby places that are truly worthwhile and will give you a better impression of the region.
From historic ruins to turquoise beaches and little-known spots, these are some of the best getaways you can take from the city.
Selçuk and the ruins of Ephesus
Just an hour by train or bus from Izmir, Selçuk is a quiet little town that serves as a perfect base for visiting Ephesus, one of Turkey's most important archaeological sites.
In addition to the ruins, Selçuk has some attractions of its own, such as the Temple of Artemis (of which practically nothing remains), the Basilica of St. John, and the Ayasuluk Castle.
You can also visit both places on a day trip from Izmir, a practical option if you don't want to worry about transfers or if you have limited time in your itinerary.
If you'd like to learn more about everything there is to see in Selçuk and Ephesus, you can read my other full post about that area, where I share my experience and several useful tips for your visit.
Çeşme, the most famous coastal town
About 85 km west of İzmir, Çeşme is a favorite getaway for both locals and tourists.
It's a charming coastal town, with cobblestone streets, whitewashed houses, and a relaxed atmosphere that contrasts with the urban pace of Izmir.
Here you'll find turquoise beaches, ocean-view cafes, and a good dose of Mediterranean charm.
Çeşme Castle, the port, and the Alaçatı area, with its windmills and boutique shops, are some of the places you can't miss.
How to get to Çeşme from İzmir
To get to Çeşme from Izmir using public transportation, you can follow these steps:
- From the center you can take the metro to Fahrettin Altay, which is the last station on the red line, to the Üçkuyular terminal (see location).
- From the Üçkuyular bus terminal, take an intercity bus to Çeşme.
- The journey takes between 1.5 and 2 hours, depending on traffic.
Yıldızburnu Sıcak Sular Natural Hot Springs
On the way to Çeşme, and almost on the seashore, you will find the Yıldızburnu Sıcak Sular natural hot springs (see location on the map), a very curious and little-known corner.
They are small pools of thermal water that spring directly from the seabed, next to a breakwater.
The interesting thing is that the warm waters mix with those of the Aegean Sea, creating an incredible contrast.
There is no tourist infrastructure or services, and only a few local people usually go there to relax, especially at sunset.
Admission is completely free, and it's a great stop if you're on your way to Çeşme and want to check out a different hot spring.
How to get to the natural hot springs
To get from Izmir to the Yıldızburnu Sıcak Sular natural hot springs (in the Ilica area) using public transport, I recommend:
- Just like going to Çeşme, take the metro to Fahrettin Altay, which is the last station on the red line, to the Üçkuyular terminal (see location).
- From the Üçkuyular Terminali bus terminal, take an intercity bus to Çeşme.
- Once in the Ilıca area, locate the Ilica Fishing Port. Get off and walk to the end of the marina, where you'll find the entrance to the hot springs.
- Make sure you allow time to walk this final stretch, as access is within the port/marina and is more accessible on foot than by direct public transport.
To return to Izmir, you can go to Ilıca Bus Station (see location) and wait for the first bus going to the city.
Getaway to Pamukkale
Another great getaway from Izmir is Pamukkale, one of the most impressive places in Türkiye.
Famous for its white travertine terraces and the ancient ruins of Hierapolis, this site combines nature and history in a unique way.
From Izmir you can get there in about 3.5 to 4 hours by bus (usually to Denizli, and from there a minibus to Pamukkale).
Es un viaje largo, por lo que lo ideal es pasar al menos una noche para poder recorrer con calma tanto las piscinas como las ruinas, aunque también se ofrecen day trips desde Esmirna.
Si querés saber más detalles sobre Pamukkale, podés leer mi post completo donde cuento mi experiencia y todo lo que necesitás saber para organizar tu visita.
Where to stay in Izmir
The best areas to stay in Izmir depend a bit on what you're looking for. If you want to be close to the action, restaurants, and the waterfront, the ideal place to stay is Alsancak, a modern area with a lot of nightlife.
If you prefer something quieter and more affordable, the Old Town (Konak) is a good option, with easy access to the main attractions. There are also more residential options near the port or the Basmane neighborhood, where the most popular hostels are usually located.
I stayed at the Lotus Garden Hostel, and it was honestly the best part of my entire experience in the city. The place has everything you'd expect from a good hostel: a relaxed atmosphere, comfortable common spaces, a well-equipped kitchen, and a lovely garden full of plants where it's easy to meet other travelers. One night there was even a live band playing, which made the atmosphere feel even more special.
The staff is also very friendly, and the location is convenient for getting around the city without any hassle. If you're traveling alone or on a budget, the Lotus Garden Hostel is definitely a great option for staying in Izmir and enjoying a space with good energy and interesting people.
How to get around Izmir
Getting around Izmir is quite easy thanks to its excellent public transportation network. The city has a metro, tram, buses, and ferries that easily connect the different neighborhoods and points of interest.
A practical option is to get the Izmirim Kart, a rechargeable card that can be used for all modes of transport and allows for free transfers within a certain time.
For more scenic journeys, ferry crossings across the bay offer an economical way to travel while enjoying the sea views.
Best time to visit Izmir
The best time to visit Izmir is during spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October), when the weather is mild, the days are sunny, and the city is not so crowded with tourists. During these months, it's ideal to stroll along the seafront, enjoy outdoor cafes, and take excursions to nearby destinations like Ephesus or Çeşme without suffering from the heat.
Summer (July and August) can be quite hot, with temperatures exceeding 35°C, and although the city is close to the sea, it is not the best time to walk around the ruins or explore the center in the sun.
On the other hand, winter is quiet, with temperatures not as cold by European standards, but with more rain and less atmosphere in general.
My final thoughts on Izmir
Beyond Çeşme, the natural hot springs, and the great experience I had at the Lotus Garden Hostel, I have to say that Izmir was the city that impressed me the least during my trip to Turkey.
It's not that it's a bad destination, but compared to places full of history and character like Istanbul, Antalya, or even Selçuk and Ephesus, I feel like Izmir falls a little behind when it comes to offering something truly special to the traveler.
It has a modern look, a local feel, and some great places to visit, but it was missing something that made it not quite right for me.
Therefore, if you're planning an itinerary with limited time, I wouldn't include it as a must-see stop, unless you want to use it as a base to explore the surrounding area.
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