Travelling for three weeks through Sri Lanka is an ideal time to discover history, nature, culture and beaches all in one trip.
The country may seem small on the map, but once you start exploring, you realize that each region has its own identity, rhythm, and unique charm. That's why having a well-organized itinerary is incredibly helpful for making the most of your time and avoiding unnecessary travel.
In this post I share my complete 21-day itinerary, with what worked well and what I would have changed. The idea is to give you a practical guide to plan your trip, understand what's worth seeing in each area, and adjust the route to suit your preferences.
If you're planning your first trip to Sri Lanka, this itinerary will serve as a basis for deciding what to include, what to leave for another trip, and how to order the stages so that the journey is smooth, varied, and enjoyable.
Table of Contents
What I liked most about Sri Lanka
After three weeks traveling around Sri Lanka, several places and experiences truly stood out. Each for different reasons, but all left a mark on the trip.
Polonnaruwa, the ancient capital
Polonnaruwa was one of the highlights of my visit. I explored the ruins on a rainy day, which, ironically, ended up working in my favor; there were very few people around, and I was able to walk among the temples, statues, and ancient palaces almost in solitude.
That tranquility made the experience feel more immersive, as if I were exploring a place frozen in time. It's one of the best-preserved archaeological complexes in the country and, without a doubt, one of the ones I enjoyed the most.
The train from Kandy to Ella (via Adam's Peak and Nuwara Eliya)
The famous panoramic train was not the most comfortable journey; it was packed with people and there were stretches where I could barely move.
But even so, the views were incredible. Endless tea plantations, green mountains, bridges, and a landscape that looked like it was taken straight from a postcard.
Furthermore, doing the trip in stages—first Adam’s Peak, then Nuwara Eliya, and only then continuing on to Ella—allowed me to see how the entire region is connected and what life is like in each town. It was one of the most epic parts of the trip.
Ella
It was, without a doubt, my favorite place in Sri Lanka. It has that bohemian, traveler's vibe, touristy but not overwhelming.
It's a perfect town to stay in for several days: there are viewpoints, waterfalls, hiking trails, the famous nine-arched bridge, and excellent restaurants. All surrounded by lush greenery that makes you feel like you're in a haven of tranquility. It was my favorite base for the trip.
Mirissa as a beach
Of all the southern beaches, Mirissa was the one that convinced me the most. It's not a destination for those looking for parties or a great surf spot; it's more of a quiet place, ideal for relaxing after several weeks on the road.
Spacious beaches, a relaxed atmosphere, and beautiful sunsets made it the perfect end to the trip.
What I liked least about Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka left me with many positive memories, but as with any long trip, there were also some aspects that I didn't enjoy as much.
The first was the famous train journey from Kandy to Ella. While I mentioned it earlier as something I enjoyed, since the route is truly beautiful and the views are picture-postcard, the experience can be very uncomfortable if you can't get a seat.
The carriages are usually packed, with almost no room to move, and if you do the whole journey in one go, it can be many hours standing up.
Therefore, I recommend making an intermediate stop, such as Nuwara Eliya, to break up the trip and enjoy it without getting exhausted.
The same thing happened to me with the local buses, although they are cheap and connect practically the entire country, they are packed with people at almost any time. Plus, the drivers tend to drive quite fast and somewhat recklessly, honking constantly. And on top of that, the mountainous areas are full of curves, which can be stressful on long journeys.
Finally, the food, while delicious and an essential part of the country's culture, did not seem particularly varied to me. Many dishes share a similar base, and almost everything is quite spicy, which can become tiresome after several days in a row.
My 3 week Sri Lanka itinerary
I arrived in Colombo by plane from Dubai, after spending two weeks in United Arab Emirates, where I had celebrated Christmas and New Year's. I didn't stay more than a couple of hours in the capital, as I wanted to start exploring the interior of the country as soon as possible.
So I took a bus to Anuradhapura, a journey of several hours that marked the true beginning of my adventure.
Anuradhapura — 2 days
I spent two nights in the city and rented a bicycle to explore the surrounding area at my own pace. And although I decided not to go into the main archaeological complex—the entrance fee is expensive and I already had plans to visit Polonnaruwa—cycling among stupas, active temples, and local life was a great introduction to the Cultural Triangle.
Days 1 and 2: How to visit Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka (coming soon)
Dambulla as a base — 3 days
From Anuradhapura I took a bus to Dambulla, where I stayed for three nights. The city was an ideal base for exploring the area.
Days 3-5: What to do in Dambulla (coming soon)
From there I visited the mythical Sigiriya Rock, the ancient capital of Polonnaruwa, and the Golden Temple, one of the most impressive rock-cut temples in the country.
How to visit Polonnaruwa, the former capital of Sri Lanka (coming soon)
How to visit Sigiriya in Sri Lanka (coming soon)
Kandy — 2 days
Then I hopped in a tuk-tuk with a travel companion to Kandy. I spent two days enjoying the city's highlights: its lake, its temples, and its more urban atmosphere, which contrasts with the interior of the country.
Days 6 and 7: What to see in Kandy, the cultural capital of Sri Lanka (coming soon)
It was also the starting point for one of the most memorable experiences, the famous train to the mountainous region.
Adams Peak (Sri Pada) — 2 days
I took the train from Kandy but got off at Hatton, from where I had to combine a couple of buses to Nallathanniya, the base for climbing Adam’s Peak.
Days 8 and 9: How to climb Adam's Peak in Sri Lanka (coming soon)
I spent two nights there, where I made the climb. It was an experience I hadn't expected. It was apparently a special day, and thousands of people had arrived from all over the country. A sea of people that made it impossible for me to reach the summit.
Nuwara Eliya — 2 days
Back in Hatton, I took the train to Nuwara Eliya, where I spent two days exploring the tea fields, visiting factories, and wandering through verdant landscapes. The cool climate and the English atmosphere of "Little England" make the place feel completely different from the rest of the country.
Days 10 and 11: How to visit tea plantations in Sri Lanka from Nuwara Eliya (coming soon)
Ella — 4 days
After that, I continued my journey on the same train to Ella, where I stayed for almost a week. It was the place I enjoyed most in all of Sri Lanka—bohemian, relaxed, and surrounded by mountains.
Between treks, the occasional scooter getaway, and moments of total disconnection, Ella became my favorite refuge of the trip.
Days 12-15: What to do in Ella (coming soon)
Mirissa — 3 days
Then I took a bus to Mirissa, where I spent three days simply resting. It's a perfect area for those seeking beaches and tranquility without the party atmosphere. Ideal for unwinding after so many miles.
Days 16-18: What to do in Mirissa (coming soon)
Unawatuna and Galle — 2 days
After that I continued on to Unawatuna for a couple of days, taking the opportunity to visit Galle on a day trip. The Dutch fort, the historic center, and the seaside walls give the city a very particular charm, although on a hot day, it can feel a bit overwhelming.
Days 19 and 20: What to see in Galle (coming soon)
Colombo — 2 days
Finally, I took the train to Colombo, where this time I did stay for two nights before taking the flight to Chennai, India, my next destination.
Days 21 and 22: What to do in Colombo, Sri Lanka (coming soon)
The capital city was the perfect ending to my trip, a glimpse of what I would find in India. Chaotic, modern, and full of contrasts, it was the ideal way to say goodbye to the country with a fresh perspective.
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