Trekking from Kyzyl-Suu to Jeti-Oguz, crossing the Archa Tor pass

The trek from Kyzyl-Suu to Jeti-Ögüz, crossing the Archa Tor mountain pass, was one of the most intense and solitary experiences I had in Kyrgyzstan. Over three days, I crossed remote valleys, many rivers, high-altitude passes, and completely isolated locations, on a journey that was as challenging as it was beautiful. It's a less-traveled route than more popular ones like Ala-Kul, but no less impressive.

What attracted me most to this trek was precisely that feeling of total isolation, of advancing through wild landscapes where human presence is minimal. While you don't cross any iconic lakes, the landscape offers no respite: mountains, incredible panoramic views, endless meadows, and even rivers that require crossing on horseback or in a rudimentary elevator. An adventure for those looking to get off the beaten track and connect with nature in a more intimate way.

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🗺️ Archa-Tor Trekking Fact Sheet

How to get to Kyzyl-Suu from Karakol

Getting to Kyzyl-Suu from Karakol is quite easy and cheap. From the marshrutka station in Karakol (see location on map), minibuses depart frequently towards Kyzyl-Suu throughout the day, especially in the morning and at noon. The journey takes about an hour, and the scenery along the route is very picturesque, bordering part of Lake Issyk-Kul and passing through small rural villages.

Marshrutkas usually depart as soon as they're full, so there are no fixed schedules, but you don't need to book in advance. Simply go to the station, ask for the minibus to Kyzyl-Suu, and wait a few minutes. It's a leisurely journey, ideal for those starting their trek from this town. Once in Kyzyl-Suu, you can start hiking from the village itself or arrange local transportation (such as a taxi) to the trailhead, depending on the exact route you plan to follow.

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Where to sleep during the trek from Kyzyl-Suu to Jeti-Ögüz

Unlike the Ala-Kul trek, where there is more infrastructure and yurt camps, on the route between Kyzyl-Suu and Jeti-Ögüz the sleeping options are much more limited, especially before crossing the Archa Tor pass. This trek can be done in three or four days, but whichever you choose, you'll likely need to be self-sufficient for at least one night.

First night

The first night I camped on a plateau before the pass, an incredibly beautiful place, surrounded by mountains and completely alone. It was one of the most impressive parts of the trek, but also one of the most emotionally challenging: the solitude, the wind, and the changeable weather can be intimidating, especially if you're not used to camping in such isolated places.

Second night

The second night, already descending from the pass, it is more likely to find some human presence. There are some yurt camps during the summer, and you can also see the occasional cabin or cottage. I ended up sleeping in a cabin owned by a local family, where they offered me hot food and a room that I shared with the children. No one spoke English, but the hospitality was total, and it ended up being a very valuable cultural experience.

In short, this trek requires bringing a tent and some food just in case, but it also leaves room for unexpected encounters with the locals. The key is to be prepared, but also to be open to the experiences the trail has to offer.

🥾 Useful tips for trekking to the Archa-Tor Pass

It's a challenging but absolutely unforgettable trek, ideal for those seeking a solo adventure in the wild.

• Wear warm clothing in layers, even if the day starts out hot. At altitude, the weather changes quickly and it can get very cold, especially near the lake and at night.
• Unlike Ala-Kul, which wasn't essential, it's recommended to bring a wind- and rain-resistant tent on this trek. In addition to a good quality sleeping bag, with a comfort temperature of at least 0°C (better if it is -5°C or less) and a thermal insulating mattress or mat, to prevent heat loss from the ground.
• Bring trekking poles if you have them. They're a great help on steep climbs and descents. They're also a great way to help you navigate through rapids.
• Bring water, although there's no need to carry so much water from the start, as there are many rivers and waterfalls throughout the trek where you can refill your supplies. However, be careful: It's advisable to avoid areas where animals are nearby, as they could contaminate the water. For added safety, you can use water purification tablets or bottles with built-in filters, which allow you to drink directly from the stream more safely.
• Don't underestimate the altitude. The maximum altitude reached at the Archa-Tor mountain pass is approximately 3900m, so while it's not extreme, it's a good idea to acclimatize a bit if you're coming from lower altitudes.
• Waterproof hiking boots. There are steep sections with loose stones and many rivers or waterfalls to cross.
• Download offline maps or bring a GPS with the track of the route. This trail is much less marked than the Ala-Kul one, since the number of people who use it is much lower. I recommend using Maps.me with the downloaded map of the area. The app has marked the walking trails around the Tian Shan Mountains.

📅 When is the best time to go trekking?

The best time to trek from Kyzyl-Suu to Jeti-Ögüz is between June and September, when mountain passes like Archa Tor are snow-free and the weather is more stable. During these months, days are longer, visibility is better, and you're more likely to find active yurt camps in some valleys.

Outside this window, conditions can become complicated by snow, cold, or heavy rain, and many of the families living at altitude descend to the villages. It's always a good idea to check the weather before you leave, even in summer, as it can change quickly in the mountains.

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Guide Map for Trekking from Kyzyl-Suu to Jeti-Oguz

How to get to the starting point of the trek

The trek from Kyzyl-Suu to Jeti-Ögüz can start directly from the village of Kyzyl-Suu, but many hikers choose to start from the hot spring resort called Dzhyly-Suu, located about 21 km further into the valley (see location on map). From there, the road ends and the most interesting part of the hike truly begins.

This first 21 km stretch is on a gravel road that could easily be avoided. Walking the entire route is not recommended unless you are planning to do the trek in 4 days, as it is long, dusty, and quiet.

From where the marshrutka drops you off in the village of Kyzyl-Suu, there are usually taxis or local cars that offer to take you to Dzhyly-Suu, although the price can be a little high if you go alone. Another option, which was the one I chose, is hitchhiking: of the 21 km, I walked about 10 in total and the rest I did in two vehicles. The first with a local who lived in a small town along the way, and the final stretch I did with a group of Russians who were on an excursion to the hot springs.

Once in Dzhyly-Suu the landscape changes completely and the real mountain adventure begins.

Day 1: From Kyzyl-Suu to Archa-Tor

The first day of the trek is marked by one important variable: how far you can advance on the 21-km stretch between the village of Kyzyl-Suu and the Dzhyly-Suu hot springs resort. This journey, which can be done on foot, by taxi, or hitchhiking, will determine whether you can reach the vicinity of the Archa-Tor pass in a single day, or if you need to spend the night before beginning the real climb.

In my case, I managed to advance approximately half of that section by car, thanks to two rides that picked me up along the way, which allowed me to reach my goal of the day: camping on a plateau near the Archa-Tor pass, in an isolated and spectacular place, ideal for spending the night before facing the climb the next day.

The path from Kyzyl-Suu to the hot springs is quite flat, with a slight very gradual climb, without any steep slopes but with a landscape that becomes a bit monotonous. It crosses open countryside, passing the occasional village with sweeping views. It's a transitional stretch, more useful than inspiring.

Once you reach the Dzhyly-Suu resort, the landscape changes radically. The pine forests appear, the river meandering near the trail, and, in the background, the first views of the steep mountains, tall and imposing, announcing that the real trekking is about to begin.

After a few hours of walking, you reach a very recognizable point on the trail: a weather station. It's an isolated structure, surrounded by mountains and grasslands, where the valley opens up.

Past the weather station, the valley continues to open up, but soon comes a small surprise: you have to cross the river and there is no bridge. What there is, however, is a kind of homemade elevator, a rudimentary structure of pulleys and rope set up by the locals, which allows you to cross suspended over the water. On the other side, there was a yurt, and it was some children who, laughing and waving, indicated that I should cross through there.

The crossing isn't free—I was charged around 400 som just to cross—but it's part of the experience and saves a lot of time and energy. This place is also an excellent place to rest or even spend the night, as the yurt family might be able to offer you accommodation (even if they don't speak English, there's always room for basic understanding).

After the river, the trail changes drastically: the climb becomes steeper, rapidly gaining altitude. The vegetation thins out, and the landscape becomes more rugged, rocky, and windy.

After that demanding climb, I reached a wide and lonely plateau, just before the Archa-Tor pass. It was there that I pitched my tent for the night, surrounded by complete silence, interrupted only by the strong wind. Sleeping there was as spectacular as it was intimidating, a memorable experience.

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🏞️ Day 2: Crossing the Archa-Tor pass and descending into the valley

The main objective of the second day was to cross the Archa-Tor Pass, which reaches approximately 3,900 meters above sea level. This is a similar altitude to the Ala-Kul Pass, but with a completely different atmosphere. From where I spent the night, the climb becomes noticeable quickly. As you gain altitude, the views of the Tian Shan Mountains become increasingly impressive.

While the Ala-Kul Pass is best known for its spectacular turquoise lake, Archa-Tor has a distinct magic. There are no camps here, no hikers, and no marked trail. It's just you, the wind, and the wild Kyrgyz landscape. The vastness and solitude make the crossing have a much more raw and authentic character.

Once past the highest point, the descent into a new valley begins, with views that at times are reminiscent of the descent from Ala-Kul: desolation, rugged mountains, and a river winding its way down to the valley floor.

Once the valley is reached, one of the most challenging sections of the day is reached: the crossing of a wide river and with a very strong current , without any bridge.

The only option is to look for a nearby yurt, since they are only beginning to appear in this area, and ask for help crossing on horseback. I had to negotiate with one of the few men I saw on the entire trek. From the 1,000 som he initially asked for, we settled on 600 som, a slightly high rate for the short service. But there isn't much of an alternative: trying to wade across the river on foot can be dangerous due to the force of the water.

After crossing the river, the day ended very differently than the day before. This time, I found a hut where a local family lived (see map) and asked if I could stay overnight, obviously paying (about 1,000 som). Without speaking any English, but with good vibes, they offered me hot food and a corner to sleep, which I shared with the children of the house.

After the previous night, camping alone at almost 3,900 meters in the cold and wind, that small shelter and the human warmth were a blessing.

Day 3: The final descent to Seven Bulls Rock

The third day is, without a doubt, the least physically demanding , since the whole route is in descent. From the cabin where I spent the night, were about 12 km to the end of the trekking , first crossing a wooded environment that followed the course of the river. Unlike the previous days, here the landscape was more inhabited , with Yurt camps and presence of premises who used these valleys as a grazing area. Still, there was still too much foreign tourism.

As the hours passed, the forest opened up until it led to a large clearing where the Seven Bulls Rock stand, a very striking reddish rock formation, which gives its name to the Jeti Oguz area. It's a very scenic end, ideal for closing the trek with a stunning postcard. There's even a nearby viewpoint that allows you to better appreciate the shape and color of these formations, similar to the red mountains seen when we began the trek from the Kyzyl Suu side.

After so many hours of wilderness and solitude, reaching this point feels like returning to the world after a retreat.

How to get back from Jeti-Ögüz to Karakol

At the end of the trek, there is no need to go all the way to the main village of Jeti-Ögüz (which is much further down the valley). Most hikers finish their trek near the famous rock formations known as the Seven Bulls (Jety-Ögüz Rocks), which mark the most accessible point for transportation.

There are usually taxis or local drivers waiting there, as it is a tourist area. You can negotiate a transfer to the village of Jeti-Ögüz, which is a few kilometers further down, and although it can be done on foot, after several days of walking it is very likely that you will benefit from getting into a vehicle.

Marshrutkas depart for Karakol from the village of Jeti-Ögüz, although not as frequently as other routes, so you may have to wait a while or share a taxi with other travelers or locals. Alternatively, you can ask the same driver to take you directly to Karakol, if the price is reasonable.

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Final reflection on the trek

I also loved this trek, and although the Ala-Kul trek had a greater impact on the landscape, with its picture-postcard glacial lake and the beauty of Altyn Arashan, the path between Kyzyl Suu and Jeti Oguz offered me something very different: a much wilder and more solitary experience.

Here, the adventure is felt at its peak, with that adrenaline rush that comes when you know there's no one around to help you if something goes wrong. Crossing rivers without bridges, relying on your gear and your intuition, sleeping alone in the middle of nowhere... all of this gives the journey a different, more intense flavor. It's not just a hike through beautiful landscapes; it's also an exercise in self-sufficiency and a deep connection with the nature that surrounds us.

It was definitely one of the most authentic journeys I've taken in Kyrgyzstan, and one of those experiences that leaves a lasting impression on you, both for everything they demanded of you and for everything they gave you.

Video summary of the 3 days trekking through Archa-Tor

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