I arrived in Osh after a long day of hitchhiking from the Susamyr Valley. It took several hours on the road, connecting with various transportation options and hitchhiking, until I finally reached this city in southern Kyrgyzstan. Osh is the second largest city in the country and one of the oldest in Central Asia, but despite its historical significance, I must say it didn't leave a great impression on me.
Beyond its historical value and its importance as a transit hub in the south of the country, my experience in Osh was somewhat lukewarm. I found the city to be lacking in charm and lacking in many things to do. Still, there are some interesting places to visit and spend at least a day there if you're crossing into or out of Uzbekistan, or as a jumping-off point for heading toward the Pamirs or the Fergana Valley.
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Impressions of Osh and its history
Osh seemed very different to me from other cities in Kyrgyzstan. You can tell we're in the south: the atmosphere is more conservative, with a strong Islamic presence in daily life, more chaotic in its streets, and with a very different vibe than the more modern Bishkek or the towns in the north. It's not an easy city to love at first glance.
However, there's no denying its historical significance. It's considered one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, with over 3,000 years of history. It was a key point on the Silk Road and still retains that air of a crossroads of cultures. Today, it's also a city marked by ethnic tensions (particularly between Kyrgyz and Uzbeks), which gives it a more complex background. Even though I didn't love it, I recognize that Osh has a strong and very defined identity, unlike any other city I've visited in Kyrgyzstan.
How to get to Osh
Osh is located in the far south of Kyrgyzstan, and although it doesn't look that far on the map, getting there can take quite a while due to the state of the roads and the country's mountainous geography.
The most common option is to reach Osh by land from Bishkek, which takes between 10 and 14 hours by car or minibus, crossing the Too-Ashuu mountain pass. It's a scenic but demanding route, with curves and rough sections. Some travelers choose to break up the journey by stopping in places like Toktogul or Jalal-Abad.
From more remote locations, such as Susamyr or Naryn, getting to Osh can be quite an adventure. As I mentioned in the introduction, I was located in the Susamyr Valley, so I had to hitchhike from there, combining several routes. Private transfers are also available from intermediate cities, although they tend to be expensive.
Another way to get there from Bishkek is by plane. There are daily flights connecting the capital with Osh, which take about an hour and are inexpensive if booked in advance.
Finally, if you're coming from Uzbekistan (especially Andijan), there's a very close border crossing, making Osh a good entry or exit point for those traveling through Central Asia.
Osh as a starting point for new adventures
One of the most useful things about my time in Osh was that it helped me prepare for the Pamir Trail Trip. This is where I took the opportunity to find out everything I needed from some local agencies and where I met Destination Pamir, an agency that helped me manage the permits to cross the border and enter the GBAO area in Tajikistan, something essential if you plan to do this route.
Osh is an excellent place to organize this type of trip, as many people choose it as a base before setting out to explore this remote region. And if you're not planning on going to Tajikistan, it's also a good point for easy crossings into Uzbekistan, especially to Andijan or even directly to Fergana.
Map with main references of Osh
What to do in Osh
Although it wasn't one of my favorite cities, Osh has some points of interest worth visiting, especially if you're passing through or using the city as a stopover for your next trip.
- Climb Solomon's Throne (Sulaiman-Too): This is Osh's most recognizable icon. A sacred mountain that rises in the middle of the city and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It's easily accessible on foot, and from the top, you have a good panoramic view of the entire city.
- Visit the National Museum of History and Archaeology: It is embedded in the same Sulaiman-Too mountain. The building is unique, and inside you can see exhibits about local history and the spiritual significance of the site.
- Explore the Jayma Bazaar: One of the oldest and largest markets in Central Asia. It's a great place to immerse yourself in the city's daily life, see traditional produce, spices, clothing, and try some street food.
- See the Rabat Abdul Khan Mosque: One of the oldest in the city, simple but with historical value.
- Enjoy local life in the parks: Although Osh is more chaotic than other Kyrgyz cities, it also has green spaces where people gather to spend the afternoon. It's a good opportunity to observe local life.
Overall, Osh is a culturally interesting city, with a strong Uzbek influence and a very different atmosphere from the north of the country. While it doesn't have many tourist attractions, it offers a glimpse into a different side of Kyrgyzstan.
How to cross the border from Osh to Uzbekistan
From Osh, crossing into Uzbekistan is fairly easy, especially if your destination is the Fergana Valley. The most common border crossing is Dostyk, located about 10 km from the city center. It can be easily reached by shared taxi or marshrutka (local minibus), departing from the bazaar or from well-known points such as the city center.
The crossing itself is usually quite smooth, although as always, it depends on the time and day. Have your passport ready and make sure you don't have more cash or medication than allowed, as Uzbek authorities can be strict. In general, if you have everything in order, the process doesn't take more than 30 to 60 minutes.
Once you cross, you will be in the city of Andijan, from where you can continue your journey to other Uzbek cities such as Kokand, Margilan, or even Tashkent.
How to get from Osh to Sary-Mogol or Sary-Tash
If your goal is to explore the Pamir Trail or if you're thinking of trekking near Lenin Peak, two strategic towns to reach are Sary-Mogol and Sary-Tash. From Osh, you can take local transport to these destinations, although the frequency and conditions may vary depending on the season.
- To Sary-Mogol, base town for trekking to Lenin Peak: The most common way is to take a marshrutka or shared taxi from the old bus station (see location on the map). However, schedules and availability may vary from day to day, so it's a good idea to inquire in advance and check if vehicles are available. The trip can take between 5 and 7 hours, depending on road conditions and stops.
- To Sary-Tash, a key town for reaching Tajikistan via the Pamir Route or for crossing into China: This town is located at an important crossroads in the Pamirs. From Osh, you can also find shared taxis or minibuses going to Sary-Tash, in the same place where you catch the ones going to Sary-Mogol. The trip takes about the same time as to Sary-Mogol, or even a little less, as the marshrutkas usually stop here first.
Where to stay in Osh
Osh has a good selection of budget accommodations, especially geared toward backpackers traveling through Central Asia. The place I stayed was called Park Hostel Osh, a great option if you're looking for a place with a traveler vibe and good vibes.
The hostel is located in one of the city's most pleasant areas, near Alisher Navoi Park, which provides a peaceful and green setting, ideal for relaxing after long trips or trekking. Its location is also quite convenient for getting around the city.
What I like most about this hostel is its atmosphere: it's a place where it's easy to meet other travelers who are crossing into Tajikistan or Uzbekistan, or who have just arrived from those countries. There are areas to relax, and the staff is very friendly.
There are other similar options in the city, but if you're looking for a backpacker-friendly, well-located, and cool place, Park Hostel Osh is a great choice.
Reflections: Is Osh worth visiting?
Honestly, Osh wasn't a city I particularly enjoyed. Beyond some beautiful green spaces and the relaxed atmosphere in certain areas, I didn't find many attractions that would justify coming here just for the city itself. I found it more of a place to stop over than to enjoy.
Therefore, I wouldn't recommend it as a destination in itself. I think it makes sense to come to Osh if you're about to begin the Pamir Trail, as I was, or if you're crossing into Uzbekistan. In those situations, it serves its purpose as a logistical stop, but if your plan is just to explore the city, it might be better to focus your trip on other places in Kyrgyzstan that have much more to offer.
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I read your travelogue and found it really interesting. I stayed in Osh for four months last year, and it was a wonderful experience. I agree with you. I think there’s a lack of attractive tourist attractions. But you’ll find that the people of Osh are incredibly friendly and kind, of course most of different Kyrgyz people too. They always welcome travelers, and I really enjoy that warm atmosphere. Thank you for writing your travelogue!
Thanks for your kind words, Yohan. Yes, the people of Kyrgyzstan are generally very friendly, and the country is a spectacular place to stay for a long time, although I wouldn’t choose Osh for that :D. Cheers!