Lake Khovsgol is one of the most beautiful corners of northern Mongolia and is often called “the little brother of Lake Baikal in Russia.” Surrounded by forested mountains and vast meadows where yaks and horses graze, this crystal-clear lake exudes a sense of peace difficult to find elsewhere in the country. It's a destination that combines pure nature, nomadic culture, and landscapes that look like something straight out of a postcard.
Visiting Khovsgol allowed me to experience Mongolia's second largest lake and explore a remote region with few amenities. The main activities include hiking trails, horseback riding, boat trips, and interacting with local people. For me, it's a place that reflects the vastness of the region with dreamlike views, although it takes time to reach and enjoy.
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Location and surroundings of Lake Khovsgol
Lake Khovsgol is located in the far north of Mongolia, very close to the Russian border, and is part of the same geographic and tectonic region as Siberia. In fact, both this lake and the famous Lake Baikal share a common origin: they are located within the Great Eurasian Tectonic Rift, which explains their depth and crystal-clear waters.
Being here is, in some ways, like being in Siberia. The landscape combines endless coniferous forests, green meadows, and mountains surrounding the lake basin, creating a completely different environment than the one we usually imagine when we think of Mongolia and its arid steppes.
Furthermore, the climate is also colder and wetter, with extremely harsh winters and short but intensely green summers. All this makes Khovsgol considered not only "Baikal's little brother," but also one of the most unique and diverse places in the country.
How to get to Lake Khovsgol
The most common access point is the city of Moron, which has an airport and road connections from Ulaanbaatar. From there, the lake is about 100 km away, and can be reached by shared taxi, local van, or by hiring private transport to Khatgal, the small village on the shores of the lake. The price of the latter taxi ride can range from 15,000 to 30,000 tugruk, depending on how crowded it is.
By bus to Moron from Ulaanbaatar and hitchhiking to Khatgal
To purchase tickets for the bus connecting Ulaanbaatar to Moron, a convenient option is to do so through Tapatrip, a widely used online platform in Mongolia for booking ground transportation. It allows you to check schedules, prices, and secure your seat in advance, avoiding the need to go to the terminal to purchase one.
The trip takes about 12 hours and generally departs Ulan Bator at night, arriving in Moron the next morning. As soon as you get off the bus, several taxi drivers approach you offering a ride to Khatgal, although in my case, I preferred to try my luck hitchhiking to the lake.
I walked to the northern exit of the city, the road that goes straight to Khatgal, and waited for someone to pick me up. It wasn't more than half an hour before a family on vacation invited me in.
No one spoke English, except for one child who was just learning it at school, which made communication limited but friendly. We made a few stops along the way, and upon arriving in Khatgal, I was invited to eat at a yurt where I sampled local meat-laden dishes.
However, the experience took an unexpected turn: before dropping me off at my hostel, the guy, on behalf of his mother, asked me for money for the trip, and it was not a small sum. I was surprised because I thought it was a gesture of hospitality, not a paid service. I didn't argue, as it was my mistake not to have checked before getting in the car, but be aware that in Central Asia, these things happen a lot. I eventually paid and never saw them again.
What to do at Lake Khovsgol
Activities at Lake Khovsgol depend largely on your travel plan: whether you're taking an organized tour, booking specific excursions, or prefer to keep things affordable and explore on your own. If you're looking to save money, the main options are to enjoy the tranquility of the shore, simply admiring the lake and its landscape, or to explore the endless trails that line its shores.
I opted for the latter option and hiked about 20 kilometers one way, following the west coast, the most attractive route. The route took me up a hill from where I had some of the best views of my time in Khatgal: a perfect contrast between the forest and the deep blue waters of the lake. The trail extends much further, but a complete loop would take several days, so I decided to return after that experience.
If you're willing to pay for activities, however, the offerings at Lake Khovsgol are quite extensive. One of the most popular are the boat trips that tour different parts of the lake, a good way to get a sense of its size and see the landscape from another perspective.
There are also horseback riding trips, which can last from a few hours to multi-day expeditions, delving into forests, mountains, and remote camps. Many of these long trips include visits to nomadic communities that live with reindeer, a highly sought-after experience for those who travel to this region.
Tsaatan ethnic group, the reindeer people
One of the most unique features of northern Mongolia is the presence of ethnic groups who raise and live with reindeer in their daily lives. These are people with ancient traditions who depend on these animals not only as a means of transportation but also as part of their cultural and spiritual identity.
Reaching them on your own is not possible: they are often in remote areas with very difficult access, and tours or guides coordinate the visits and provide them with money in exchange for allowing them to interact with tourists. This ensures the experience is possible, although it also clearly differentiates it from independent exploration of the lake.
Where to stay on Lake Khovsgol
Khatgal is a small village located at the southern tip of Lake Khovsgol and is often the most convenient place to base yourself. Almost any accommodation is within a relatively short walk of the shore, allowing you to walk to the docks or start some of the trails that border the lake. Its compact size makes it very convenient to get around on foot, without the need for additional transportation.
Most travelers stay in gers (traditional yurts) around the lake, which operate as tourist camps run by local families. It's one of the best ways to connect with nomadic life while enjoying simple yet authentic accommodations.
There are also many hostels and guesthouses in Khatgal, ideal for backpackers, offering both standard rooms and gers in their own gardens, giving you the opportunity to choose the experience that appeals most to you. Several of these places also operate as restaurants, making your stay much easier.
A good example is Energy Guest House, where I stayed. There you can eat and sleep at the same time, whichever option you prefer.
Spending at least two nights is recommended, as the surroundings invite you to linger and enjoy the experience at a leisurely pace.
What is the best time to visit Lake Khovsgol?
The best time to visit Lake Khovsgol is during the summer, between June and September, when temperatures are pleasant and the surroundings are at their most beautiful. During these months, the days are long, the weather is more stable, and the forests and meadows surrounding the lake are a deep green. It's also the ideal time for outdoor activities such as hiking, boating, and horseback riding.
Outside of these months, the landscape changes drastically. Winter in this region is very harsh: temperatures drop to tens of degrees below zero, and the lake freezes completely, becoming a natural highway that locals use to get around. While visiting in winter can be a unique experience, especially during the Ice Festival in March, it is not an easy trip for most travelers, as the extreme weather conditions make it challenging.
Therefore, unless you have a particular interest in the Mongolian winter, it's recommended to plan your visit for summer, when access is easier and you can fully enjoy the scenery and activities.
How many days to stay at Lake Khovsgol
You don't need a lot of time to enjoy Lake Khovsgol, although this depends on the type of trip you're looking for. I was there for 4 days, taking it easy, enjoying the scenery and walking the trails without rushing. But with 2 days you can get a good impression of the lake and its surroundings, especially if your plan is just to explore and relax. However, keep in mind that getting here involves a long journey from Ulan Bator, so for a very short stay, it might feel a bit rushed.
How to get back to Ulan Bator from Khatgal and Lake Khovsgol
To return to Ulaanbaatar, the most common option is to first return to Moron and from there take a bus to the capital. However, direct buses leave twice a week from Khatgal, at approximately 7:30 a.m., which make a stop in Moron before continuing on to the capital.
If you want to see the exact days or buy tickets, it is best to check at your hostel in Khatgal or use the official Mongolian transport app, as these buses are not usually available on TapaTrip
Final thoughts: Is Lake Khovsgol worth visiting?
The truth is that my visit to Lake Khovsgol left me with mixed feelings. On the one hand, the surroundings are truly beautiful: a green landscape covered in forests that resembles that of Lake Baikal in Russia, since both are part of the same geographical region.
What I enjoyed most was wandering along the shore, wandering away from the town until I felt completely alone, with the exception of a few campsites accessible by car. That silent solitude, along with those verdant landscapes, was, without a doubt, the highlight of the trip to Lake Khovsgol.
But on the other hand, I feel that if you don't dare to do some of the activities I mentioned before, whether it's a boat trip, a horseback ride, or a visit to the reindeer communities, the experience might fall a bit short. Especially since getting here from Ulaanbaatar takes quite a bit of time and effort, so coming just to relax by the lake might not be worth the trip.
In my opinion, it's worth it if you travel with an open mind to add some extra activities beyond simply gazing at the lake.
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