Exploring the Sahara Desert is one of those experiences that will stay with you forever, and Merzouga, in southeastern Morocco, is one of the most accessible gateways to seeing this remote place firsthand. This small, dusty village, almost on the border with Algeria, sits on the edge of the Erg Chebbi dunes, a sea of golden sand that rises imposingly above the landscape.
Getting here isn't quick, but it's precisely this remoteness that makes it so appealing. As one moves away from the bustle of the imperial cities and into increasingly arid roads, the transformation begins.
This post is part of the itinerary I put together for a 3- or 4-week tour of Morocco. If you'd like to see the full details, you can read the main article here.
Table of Contents
🏜️ The Sahara and its Moroccan side
The Sahara is the world's largest hot desert, an ocean of sand and rock that stretches over 9 million square kilometers, crossing a dozen countries in North Africa. It is a place of extremes: scorching heat during the day and dry cold at night, absolute silence and endlessly starry skies. But beyond the geographical, the Sahara also represents an imaginary: camel caravans, Berber nomads, hidden oases, and a life that endures where almost nothing grows.
In Morocco, the Sahara occupies a significant portion of the southeast of the country, although many are surprised to discover that the famous dunes are not that close to major cities like Marrakech or Fez. Here, the desert takes many forms: rocky valleys, endless plains, and of course, spectacular sand dunes like Erg Chebbi (Merzouga) and Erg Chigaga (near M'Hamid).
🏜️ Where to enter the Sahara Desert in Morocco?
Morocco's Sahara Desert can be explored from several different access points, but the two main gateways are Merzouga (Erg Chebbi) and Zagora/M'Hamid (Erg Chigaga). Each offers a distinct experience, with advantages depending on the type of traveler, the amount of time available, and the level of adventure sought.
🟠 Merzouga – The Erg Chebbi Dunes
✔️ Advantages:
- It is the most popular and touristic access: there is more infrastructure (hotels, tours, transportation).
- The dunes are very high and spectacular, perfect for photos and walks.
- Easy to combine with visits to Fez, Todra Gorges, and Ouarzazate.
- Direct access by bus (Supratours) or with organized tours.
❌ Disadvantages:
- Being so popular, you may feel more “tourist-ready.”
- Less feeling of isolation/disconnection.
- Long journeys from Fez or Marrakech (7 to 10 hours by transport).
🟢 Zagora – The beginning of the “soft” Sahara
✔️ Advantages:
- Much closer to Marrakech (6-7 hours by car or bus).
- Ideal for a quick 2-day getaway from Marrakech.
- Less massive, quieter.
❌ Disadvantages:
- The landscape is more arid and flat: it does not have spectacular dunes like Merzouga.
- More urban, less of a “desert” feel.
🟢 M’Hamid – The Wildest Sahara (Erg Chigaga)
✔️ Advantages:
- Entrance to the most authentic and remote desert, least affected by tourism.
- Erg Chigaga dunes: tall, vast and unspoiled.
- A more adventurous and off-the-beaten-track experience.
❌ Disadvantages:
- It is only accessible by 4x4 or specialized tours.
- Limited infrastructure.
- More planning required and more expensive if you go alone.
🧭 Which one to choose?
- If it's your first time and you want to see the "postcard Sahara": Merzouga.
- If you have little time and are leaving from Marrakech: Zagora.
- If you're looking for adventure, isolation, and something different: M'Hamid and Erg Chigaga.
🚌 How to get to Merzouga, Morocco?
Getting to Merzouga, the gateway to the stunning Sahara Desert and the Erg Chebbi dunes, may seem complicated at first, as there's no direct airport or train station. But with a little planning, it's easily accessible from several cities in Morocco.
🚌 1. By bus (economical option)
- Supratours offers direct buses from Fez, Marrakech and Errachidia to Merzouga or the nearby town of Hassilabied.
- From Marrakech the journey is long (12-13 hours), but the buses are comfortable and leave in the afternoon/evening so you arrive early.
- From Fez, it's a shorter time, approximately 9:45 a.m. They usually depart Fez around 7:00 p.m. and arrive around 5:00 a.m.
If you're coming from Fez and want to know more about the imperial city, you might be interested in reading this post about what to do there
🚐 2. Organized tour (most practical option)
If you don't want to worry about logistics, there are 2, 3 and 4 day tours from Marrakech, Fez or same Merzouga, which include transportation, guide, accommodation in the desert, and boat ride Camel. It's a popular option if you're short on time or traveling alone and want company.
Tours departing from Marrakech
Tours departing from Fez
🚗 3. By private car or rental
The most flexible and adventurous option. You can drive from:
- Fez (approx. 7-8 h / 470 km): Scenic route passing through Ifrane and the Middle Atlas.
- Marrakech (approx. 9-10 h / 560 km): Via Ouarzazate and the Todra Gorges, ideal for an overnight stay.
- Ouarzazate (approx. 6 h) or Errachidia (approx. 2 h): closer options if you are already in the south.
The roads are in good condition, but are mountainous in sections, so it's best to avoid driving at night.
✈️ 4. By plane (combined with land)
The closest airport to Merzouga is Errachidia (ERH). From there, you can take a private taxi, shuttle, or bus to Merzouga (approximately 2 hours). Royal Air Maroc operates flights from Casablanca or Fez.
You can read the complete travel guide to Morocco. There you have all the information you need to plan your trip to this fantastic country.
🚗 What to see between Marrakech and Merzouga
The journey between Marrakech and Merzouga is long, about 560 kilometers (approximately 9-10 hours), but it's full of incredible stops whether you're doing it as part of a tour or on your own over several days. Some must-see places include:
- Ait Ben Haddou: an ancient fortified city, a World Heritage Site, the setting for films such as Gladiator and Game of Thrones.
- Ouarzazate: Known as the “gateway to the desert,” home to film studios and impressive kasbahs.
- Dades Valley and Todra Gorges: Two natural gems nestled between mountains and canyons, ideal for hiking and marveling at the scenery.
- Palm groves and Berber villages: offering an authentic glimpse into rural life in southern Morocco.
🏞️ What to see between Fez and Merzouga
The road from Fez to Merzouga, approximately 470 kilometers (approximately 7-8 hours), crosses the mountainous heart of Morocco, with constantly changing landscapes. Here are some recommended stops:
- Ifrane: the “Moroccan Switzerland”, with alpine architecture and clean air.
- Azrou Cedar Forests: Home to Atlas monkeys that often approach visitors.
- Midelt: A city of passage with views of the Middle Atlas Mountains.
- Ziz Valley: A stunning oasis of palm trees that contrasts with the desert surroundings.
What is Merzouga like?
Merzouga is a small, dusty town located in southeastern Morocco, just a few kilometers from the Algerian border. Although it's just a handful of buildings scattered among dirt and sand streets, its fame is due to a powerful reason: it's located right at the foot of the Erg Chebbi dunes, some of the highest and most photogenic in the Moroccan Sahara.
Despite its small size, Merzouga welcomes visitors from all over the world, drawn by the unique experience of spending a night in the desert. The town serves as a base for camel rides, 4x4 excursions, and stays in traditional tents. The surrounding area is home to Berber communities who, despite the growth of tourism, preserve many of their ancestral customs. Merzouga is a destination not for its architecture or urban attractions, but for its privileged location: it is where the asphalt ends and the Sahara begins.
Most of the inhabitants of Merzouga and its surroundings belong to Berber communities, an ancient people from North Africa who have inhabited these lands long before the arrival of tourism. Many of them traditionally lived from herding, oasis farming, and caravan routes, but with the rise of desert tourism in recent decades, many have found a new source of income as guides, drivers, musicians, or hosts in desert camps.
While this transformation has brought development and opportunities, it also poses challenges: increased tourist demand has impacted water use, waste generation, and a loss of authenticity in some experiences. Still, many locals make an effort to preserve their cultural identity, sharing with travelers not only the desert landscape but also their hospitality, traditional Gnawa music, and ways of life that stand the test of time.
🏜️ Is the Sahara as bleak as one imagines?
When you think of the Sahara, you imagine an endless landscape, a sea of solitary dunes that stretch into the horizon, where there is no trace of civilization and absolute silence reigns. But the reality in Merzouga is a little different. Although the Erg Chebbi dunes are truly beautiful and photogenic, the truth is that the area is not as extensive as many believe: it is about 5 kilometers wide and 20 kilometers long, and from the highest dunes you can see the town of Merzouga on one side and the rows of tourist camps on the other.
This takes away some of the sense of total isolation that many travelers (myself included) expect in the desert. Don't get me wrong: it's still a stunning place, but it's not the vast, wild, and empty Sahara you might imagine if you've only seen it from movies or documentaries. Sometimes, between the sounds of generators in the camps or the flashing photos, it's hard to feel that complete disconnection.
That said, it's still an excellent gateway to the desert world, especially for first-time visitors. But if you're looking for a truly remote and less-touched experience, you might want to explore other areas like Erg Chigaga near M'Hamid, where access is more difficult and tourism is even scarcer.
🐫 What is the Sahara Desert tour like?
One of the most common (and popular) ways to experience the Sahara in Morocco is through an organized tour, which typically includes a sunset camel ride, an overnight camp among the dunes, a typical dinner, and traditional Berber music performances under the stars. These tours can be easily booked from Marrakech or Fez as part of 2- to 4-day packages that combine stops at places like Ait Ben Haddou, the Dades Valley, or the Todra Gorges.
However, if you have time and want more freedom, a recommended option is to arrive in Merzouga on your own and book the tour directly with one of the local agencies or your accommodation. This way, you can compare prices, choose more authentic experiences (there are basic, eco-friendly, and more luxurious camps), and speak with the guides face-to-face before committing. There's also the option of taking the dune trek by 4x4 or quad bike, combining the experience with visits to nomadic villages or seasonal lakes like Dayet Srij.
🤔 My personal experience: authentic or staged?
While the desert scenery is stunning and sleeping in the camps sounds like a dream, my experience with the organized tour left me with mixed feelings. Everything seemed to follow a timed script: the camel ride (which I chose not to do, as I don't feel comfortable using animals for tourism purposes), the sunset photos, the dinner served with little room for conversation, and a nighttime drum show that felt more like a mechanical performance than a true cultural expression.
Although the guides and entertainers, all Berbers, made a great effort to entertain, I got the feeling that, rather than sharing their way of life, they were following a repetitive script to satisfy the average tourist.
It's fine to experience it, of course, but be mindful: the more customizable the tour (and less crowded), the more likely you are to truly experience the local culture. And if you can, avoid express packages that depart nonstop from Marrakech, as they often sacrifice depth for convenience.
🌙 My favorite moment in the Sahara: getting lost alone in the dunes
Beyond the organized tours, the nightly shows, and the routes marked out by the agencies, what I truly loved about Merzouga was when, on my first day there, I had no plans yet and decided to go into the sea of dunes, get away from it all, and lose myself in the desert on my own. I walked aimlessly, deep into that undulating sea of sand, trying to get as far away as possible from the camps, the camels, the voices, the engines. Just me and the dunes.
In a moment, there were no more traces of civilization. No tents, no lights, no footprints in the sand. Just silence and wind. That feeling of desolation and total remoteness, of being in a corner of the world where nothing else mattered, was probably the most powerful thing Merzouga gave me. I felt small, insignificant… and, oddly enough, at peace.
That night there was a full moon. Large and round, it hung over the dunes like a lantern suspended from the sky. It illuminated the entire desert with a ghostly, almost magical clarity. On the one hand, it was beautiful: seeing the soft shadows on the dunes, walking without a flashlight and feeling like everything was covered in a silvery light. But on the other, the light was so intense that it obscured the starry sky I had so longed to see. There was no Milky Way, no bright constellations, no infinite blackness of the cosmos.
That moment, however, has remained etched in my memory. It was a deeply intimate and true experience.
🌵 What to do in Merzouga and surrounding areas
Although Merzouga is a very small town and its main attraction is the desert, there are some activities to do both in the urban area and in the dunes and its surroundings.
In the village of Merzouga
Merzouga itself doesn't have any major tourist attractions, but it's worth exploring on foot to observe the peaceful pace of local life. There are a few small shops, cafes, and stalls where you can sample tea or buy Berber handicrafts. You can also visit a fossil cooperative, as this area is rich in paleontological finds dating back millions of years.
Activities in the desert
- 4×4 Tour: Ideal for exploring the surroundings of Erg Chebbi, visiting nomadic villages, wells, hidden oases or the seasonal Dayet Srij lake (when it has water, it attracts flamingos).
- Quad or buggy excursions: For those looking for a little more adrenaline among the dunes.
- Sandboarding: Some agencies offer boards to slide down the dunes, a fun activity with great views from above.
- Trekking through the dunes: If you want to truly connect with your surroundings, you can hike at sunrise or sunset, without the noise of engines or distractions.
- Desert Camp Overnight: This is the star activity. It includes transportation (camel or 4x4), dinner, live music, and sleeping under the stars.
- Observe the night sky: Far from light pollution, nights in Merzouga can offer incredibly starry skies (if you don't happen to be under a full moon like me). It's a spectacle in itself.
🛏️ Where to stay in Merzouga: options for all tastes
The town of Merzouga offers a wide variety of accommodations, from local homes and traditional hotels to luxurious desert camps. Here are some notable options:
💰 Affordable options
Camel Trek Bivouac: This is where I stayed. A budget option in the village of Merzouga, offering simple but comfortable rooms and a welcoming atmosphere. The owner also has his own camp in the desert and offers tours. He is a very rational man and can negotiate prices and the activities included or not in the tour.
Merzouga Traditional Camp: For those looking for an authentic experience on a budget, this camp offers basic desert accommodation at affordable prices.
🏨 Hotels in the village
Kanz Erremal: Located on the outskirts of Merzouga, this hotel offers direct views of the Erg Chebbi dunes. It features a swimming pool and rooms decorated in a traditional Moroccan style.
Kasbah Hotel Tombouctou: Located near the dunes, this hotel combines traditional architecture with modern amenities, including an on-site pool and restaurant.
⛺ Desert camps
Merzouga Luxury Desert Camps: Offers a “glamping” experience in the desert, with well-equipped tents, private bathrooms, and activities such as camel rides and live music.
Sahara Majestic Luxury Camp: This camp offers accommodation in traditional tents with all modern amenities, including electricity and private bathrooms.
How many days to stay in Merzouga?
2 to 3 days is enough to enjoy the full desert experience in Merzouga. One day to arrive, another to tour the dunes and spend the night at the camp, and a third to explore at a leisurely pace or simply relax. If you have extra time, you can take advantage of it to unwind, explore the surrounding area, or simply enjoy the vastness of the landscape without rushing.
☀️ What is the best time to visit the Sahara Desert in Morocco?
The best time to visit the Moroccan Sahara is between October and April, when temperatures are most pleasant, especially if you plan to spend the night in the desert. During these months, the days are warm and the nights cool, creating ideal conditions for exploring the dunes, hiking, and enjoying starry skies without the unbearable heat.
Between May and September, the heat can get extreme, with daytime temperatures easily exceeding 45°C. In the height of summer, sleeping in a tent without air conditioning can be a harsh experience if you're not used to the desert climate.
In spring (March-April) and autumn (October-November), the desert shows its friendliest side: clear skies, gentle breezes, and golden landscapes that look like something out of another planet. If you have a choice, these are the best months to visit.
I went in November and it was like this, during the day in a t-shirt and not too hot, but at night it was quite cool.
Comparison of the world's great deserts: experiences that are not alike
I've been fortunate enough to visit several deserts in my lifetime. Each one has its own unique character. Some resemble landscapes from another planet, others immerse you in ancient history, and still others confront you with the purest immensity. These are some of my experiences in five very different deserts:
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia (América)
Desert Type: Saline/Arid
What makes it unique: An endless white plain where heaven and earth merge.
Experience: More than a desert in the classic sense, Uyuni is pure surrealism. The excursion usually includes colored lagoons, geysers, flamingos and freezing nights. It is a hallucinatory visual experience.
Feeling: Isolated, another planet, introspective.
You may be interested in reading about the 4-Day Uyuni Salt Flats Tour from Tupiza.
Wadi Rum Desert, Jordan (Middle East)
Desert type: Sandy and rocky
What makes it unique: Its Martian landscape. Red rock mountains that emerge from the sand and form spectacular canyons.
Experience: I slept in Bedouin camps (similar to the Berbers), walked among rock formations, saw orange sunsets and impressive night skies. It was one of the most cinematic (not for nothing was “The Martian” filmed here).
Feeling: Epic, ideal for explorers.
Article where I tell my experience in the Wadi Rum desert.
Gobi Desert, Mongolia (Asia)
Desert type: Mixed (sand, rock, steppe)
What makes it unique: Its geographic diversity: dunes, fire cliffs, dinosaur fossils.
Experience: Wilder and more remote. Real nomadic life, somewhat touristy (in the Khongoriin Els dunes). I slept in a ger with other tourists on the tour. At times, it seemed like there was absolutely no one else in the world.
Feeling: More authentic, raw, introspective.
How to visit the Gobi Desert in Mongolia (coming soon)
Thar Desert, India (Asia)
Desert type: Light sand, semi-arid
What makes it unique: Its vibrant culture. It is not a desolate desert, but full of villages, colors and people.
Experience: Very authentic, leaving a village next to the dunes and sand sector of the desert. I slept outdoors with a beautiful sky full of stars.
Feeling: Cultural, warm, spiritual, introspective.
Visitando el Desierto de Thar en Rajastán, India (próximamente)
Sahara Desert (Merzouga), Morocco (Africa)
Desert type: Sandy, semi-arid.
What makes it unique: The high dunes of Erg Chebbi and their accessibility.
Experience: More touristy. Camps with everything set up and nightly shows. But when I wandered alone through the dunes, I felt that silence and vastness I was looking for.
Feeling: It depends on how you experience it. It can be very armed or deeply lonely.
✨ Final thoughts: expectations vs. reality in the Sahara
Traveling to the desert brings with it a heavy load of imaginary experiences: the vastness, the silence, the deep connection with nature. But sometimes, those expectations clash with the reality of organized tourism, of group selfies at sunset, of campsites lined up side by side, of experiences that seem more designed for social media than for the soul.
That doesn't mean it's not worth it. The Sahara remains majestic, and watching the sun set behind a dune is still a powerful moment. But it's also important to travel with an open mind and eyes wide awake, to understand that not every place retains its mystique intact, and that the challenge often lies in finding the authentic among the crafted.
If you're in the area, you might be interested in the post I wrote about Tinghir, with its palm oasis and the Todra Gorge